Thursday 10 May 2012

Held in Trust

Comparisons can be, and often are, invidious. However, on occasion, and one such as this, they serve to make and illustrate a point.

Osterley Park, a Neo-Classical mansion, property of The National Trust

Cziráky-kastély, a Neo-Classical mansion, property of the Hungarian State, with custodian

Osterley Park lies within easy reach of London. The Cziráky-kastély, at Lovasberény, is not so many miles from Budapest. Osterley, complete with Adam interiors, pleasure grounds and landscaped park is generally regarded as one of the finest Neo-Classical houses in Britain. It is maintained to an exceptionally high standard by The National Trust. The Cziráky-kastély is considered to be one of the most significant examples of Neo-Classical architecture in Hungary. Its park, dating back to the eighteenth century and in the English style, extends to some 40 hectares. Both house and grounds, ruinous and ravaged by time, neglect, occupying armies, and complete indifference, are in the ownership of the Hungarian State with day to day responsibility delegated to the National Trust for Monuments.

the main entrance hall of Osterley Park as designed by Robert Adam

the main entrance hall of Cziráky-kastély at Lovasberény, Hungary

It is, we regret to say, a total disgrace. Advertised as open daily, we were fortunate to time our visit to a Saturday when it was possible to rouse the custodian by telephone who, it must be said, quite cheerfully cycled from the village, cutting across the park, dog at his side, keys jangling from his belt, to give us entry.

doorway to principal rooms - note the custodian's hat - designed in an 'enfilade' arrangement 

an internal corridor in the guest wing - note the wiring - similar to one in the servants' wing

Permitted to wander at will, our 'guide' meanwhile having retired to read his paper beneath the portico, we risked both life and limb to explore this vast shell of a one time splendid mansion. Falling plaster, bare brick, exposed timbers, dirt, dust and decay all combine to tell a sad, sorry story.

the Baroque chapel, as viewed from an upper window, situated in the English style park

detail of the exterior of the Baroque chapel in the park - one of several similar statues

remains of  a wall painting in the interior of the chapel having been partially restored

Outside the loveliest of Baroque chapels, emptied of its contents, shares dandelion-rich parkland with the ubiquitous Co-op Food Store. Power to the proletariat indeed!

a Co-op Food Store built in the mansion's parkland sometime during the 1960s or 1970s

But what, we ask ourselves, of the future of this priceless treasure? Clearly billions of Hungarian forint, and enormous will on the part of government and people, are urgently required if this, and so many buildings like it, are to be saved.

the National flag of Hungary flies proudly over the mansion - but to what real purpose?

No wonder Osterley looks safe, secure, and not a little smug in comparison.

236 comments:

  1. Living in New Zealand, which really doesn't have much spare cash, I was going to say it's about money, but it's priorities too isn't it? How much do we value our culture and history? It is very sad seeing the state of this once beautiful building. I don't know the answer when 'austerity measures' are being wielded, but if nothing is done soon, there will be no choice, or history maintained. Thanks for sharing - definitely makes me think! Annie x.

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    1. Of course, as you say, it is to do with money, of which there is very little surplus here in Hungary, but it is also, as you go on to say, a question of priorities and we should think, or rather hope, that preserving important aspects of any nation's cultural heritage was rather higher up the list than so often appears to be the case.

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  2. Hello dear Jane and Lance,

    I wonder, how far can be come that such beautiful houses are completely deserted and empty? Is there anyone who has a little love for this kind of houses in the countryside? Or is this an exception?

    Have a wonderful day my friends
    XX
    Jérôme

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    1. Oh, dear Jérome, we wish that we could say that this is an exception. Unfortunately, throughout Hungary there are several hundred in similar condition, or worse, with little prospect in the foreseeable future of their restoration. Indeed, for many it is probably too late.

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  3. It is indeed sad to see such a beautiful building left to crumble. I wonder what would have happened if the buildings were being restored for many years as a way to hire and help people back into the work force while stimulation the economy of the area.
    Of course like many countries, money can only be stretched so far. It is indeed a dilemma.

    cheers, parsnip

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    1. Your idea, Gayle, as a means of injecting life into the local economy seems to us to be a very sound one. The problem then becomes as to what use should such buildings, once restored, be put as there is probably an insufficient number of 'visiting public' to maintain them as tourist attractions.

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  4. What a heart-breaking tale of two mansions. A whole new industry could be created by restoring such treasures. I know so many people who travel overseas to 'discover' Eastern Europe.

    To neglect such homes is almost criminal. xx

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    1. We do so agree. It always surprises us that, as far as it is possible to tell, there is no European Union funding available for such projects and yet when it comes to the building of new roads, for example, there never appears to be a shortage of money.

      As far as promoting tourism is concerned, when compared with other Eastern European countries, Hungary lags far behind.

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    2. The EU is of course rather skint at the moment, and charities such as the NT are the answer. The British solution of course is much influenced by the class system that brought about these huge houses, and which still fascinates most of us, wherever we think to place ourselves on the rung. Something to be truly proud of.

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    3. We should agree, Columnist, that there is, throughout Europe, a shortage of money at the present time although this is not always apparent as we have replied to Brismod here.

      Interestingly, a charitable trust with very ambitious plans for the Cziráky-kastély was set up in 1995 with a fifteen year plan for its restoration. Nothing became of it, or any money, and as we understand it it is now dissolved.

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  5. In the days when we were first married, and had very little spare money, many a happy hour was spent wandering in the grounds of Osterley Park!
    I know you are not keen on some of the overly staged rooms of the National Trust properties, and I agree, but if it means these old buildings are saved, then it is a small price to pay. It is very sad seeing beautiful buildings in this state.

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    1. What fun, Tracey, in the early years of your marriage to have spent time at Osterley. These simple pleasures are very often the best, and the ones which we remember above many others.

      Although, as you rightly say, we feel that at times The National Trust tends towards 'overly staged' rooms, we should far prefer that at any time to the state of so many of these Hungarian mansions whose future, if they have one at all, remains very uncertain.

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  6. Only last week, I've been to Newby Hall in Yorkshire, which boasts several extremely well preserved Adam interiors as well (Newby Hall is not in the hands of the National Trust, but is still lived in and run by the family who originally had it built).
    Have I ever mentioned that I do have a thing for run-down and neglected places? How much I would have loved to explore the poorly looking kastély myself - especially if, as you described it, without supervision by any guide or custodian!
    I am not very familiar with the situation of the average Hungarian family, but I can imagine that most people are, first and foremost, interested in having an intact roof over their own heads, enough food in their fridges and a nice big telly in their living room before they start thinking about restoring a national treasure such as this.
    A sad story indeed.

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    1. We have never, having in recent years only made infrequent visits to Yorkshire, Meike, visited Newby Hall but we do know of it by reputation and, of course, the gardens, a passion of the late Robin Compton, are, we believe, superb.

      Like you, we do favour country houses, and places of interest, which are not over restored and it is always fascinating to look around somewhere which has been completely neglected, not least for imagining how it might have been and how it could be.

      But you make a very good point here, and particularly so in these present times of great austerity in Hungary where ordinary people are having to cope with a reduction of earnings, rising taxes, unemployment and homelessness. Little wonder that these places are as they are. But that said, you should plan a visit for you would be most intrigued and interested.

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  7. Do tell us all some of the history of the building who built it with what fortune?
    Even in this state there are stories to tell...there is still so much beauty in the building.

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    1. The earliest part of the mansion dates from the 1760s, Heather, but was altered to its present form from 1804 onwards for Count József Cziráky whose family lived there up until 1945. Much of the work of the nineteenth century is by a famous Hungarian architect, Miklós Ybl, designer of the Budaoest Opera House.

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  8. Hello Jane and Lance

    Thank goodness for The National Trust but also the pride that "everyman" takes in their British heritage.

    I am reminded of a trip we made through the former East Germany, soon after the Wall fell, when we saw the late Baroque palace of Ludwigslust. Both the building and its park were in a similar sad state to this Hungarian palace. A few years later, we revisited and found it restored to its former magnificence. Similar restorations seem to have taken place throughout the East, much with the help of EU support.

    Here, in Norway, we have no equivalent to the National Trust and heritage seems to be a very low priority. Consequently, many historical buildings are being literally propped-up on scandalously small funds.

    It all boils down to politics. I do hope the authorities in Hungary do something before such buildings are lost forever. After all, it is hard to imagine how impoverished Britain's heritage would be today, were it not for the National Trust.

    Anna

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    1. When we see the condition of so many of these Hungarian country houses, Anna, whatever reservations we have about The National Trust melt away and one is, instead, filled with admiration for the remarkable work which they do entirely without State funding.

      It is most interesting to us to read what you write about the Ludwigslust Palace in the former DDR. As we have said to Brismod [above], there does not appear to be any European money in any substantial way put into similar projects here.

      The situation in Norway does also sound rather dire. We fear that in Hungary, apart from a lack of will, widespread corruption can very often account for why things are as they are.

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    2. Hi to you all,

      if you wonder about the financing of restorations in former Eastern Germany (DDR), don't think it was paid out of EU funds.

      Every German tax payer pays since 1990 and still (!) 5,5% of its income every month to the state, it's called the "Solidaritaetszuschlag", to rebuilt the East (Wiederaufbau Ost). So there is your money. 100s of millions of Euros collected over 20 years. The ex-DDR looks like new, streets there are even in better than in some areas in the West.

      Not sure if something like that could be introduced to Hungary to preserve the National Heritage. It is really a pity to see these treasures going down.

      Great post!

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    3. We are very aware, Suzie, from our German friends, about the levels of tax which have been raised to meet the costs of developing the former DDR. As we understand, the whole process was supposed to be only for five years but it is already well over that time and looks set to continue for the foreseeable future.

      The problem in transferring such an idea to the former Eastern Bloc countries is who shall the tax be levied upon.....we imagine that the Austrians [as formerly part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire] might not be happy contributors!!!!

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  9. How it pains me to see such beauty drowned in sheer neglect! Here in India, we have such majestic ruins in abundance; the remnants of Mughal and colonial architecture that stand disheveled and dismissed. Sadly, unlike the Taj Mahal or even the Red Fort, many beautiful buildings crumble just under the pressure of unpopularity, even amongst our own countrymen.

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    1. We have very recently looked at many pictures taken by a friend who recently returned from India. And, as you say, whilst we marvelled at the quantity of the most remarkable palaces and temples, we were somewhat shaken to see so many signs of total neglect. It is all very, very sad.

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  10. Where does one lay the blame! Its totally political.. We have some buildings here that have been neglegted..mainly old monesteries.. ! The agenda of priorities seems to be all mixed up after these poor countries were left devestated from the "invaders".. It is so so sad.
    Dear Jane and Lance.
    This is such a sad post. To see such a magnificent edifice just left to waste.. Not just for the Hungarians but for the preservation of history.. great buildings speak of history.. they should be the first on any countries preservation list.
    thank you for sharing .. your photos explain it all.
    Happy days Jane and Lance. wishing you a pleasant Thursday.
    val x

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    1. It is, as you rightly remark here, Val, very largely political. In Hungary much blame is attached for the ruination of country houses like this one to the occupation of them by the Russian army for many years, and it is true that much damage was done. But equally, many similar properties in the United Kingdom were taken over by the British army during the Second World War and left in scandalous condition which was, subsequently, put right. Where there is a will there is a way; we fear that at the moment there is no will in Hungary.

      Happy Thursday to you too.

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  11. Isn't there a homegrown cultural tourist industry in Hungary, I wonder? How come there are so few visitors? Is there a complete lack of interest in these cultural heritage sites?

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    1. Alas, the promotion of tourism in Hungary is, at its best, completely amateurish. Even in Budapest there is very little real attempt to increase visitor numbers to the many galleries and museums. The tourist offices in the City are manned by staff permanently behind desks at computers who make almost no effort to welcome anyone going in and, once inside, there is precious little information available about anything.

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  12. Jane and Lance,
    How sad to see the ravages of time and lack of care and attention to these buildings. Is there no funding available in Hungary to address their historical treasures. I am wondering what the general populace feels about such things. A lottery perhaps would be the way to go. Sad!
    Di
    X

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    1. Whatever funding may be available, Dianne, is, or so it would appear, totally inadequate. As far as we are able to ascertain, there is complete indifference on the part of the population towards these historic monuments possibly for reasons outlined to Meike of 'Librarian' [above].

      There is a national Lottery but we have no idea what happens to that money!!

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  13. The words "complete indifference" were the ones that stood out for me in this post. Wishing I could pop some passion and enthusiasm in an envelope and send it to help restore this grandest of buildings. It's just not that simple or easy though, is it?

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    1. Yes, you are right, what is required is real passion for these buildings and then, possibly, something might happen. Perhaps you could come and organise a rescue campaign?!

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  14. Oh the ravages of communism! It's a real shame that these old edifices are being allowed to rot and disintegrate, leaving only a trace of the country's rich culture and history. But mismanagement and corruption and bad decisions will take their toll - anywhere. As stuffy as the National Trust is, and all the wretched, tiresome listed building rules and regulations, at least they allow us to enjoy, and take pride in, Britain's history.

    And isn't that Co-op building just hideous? Like all of them, all over the world. I wonder which architect we have to thank for those supermarket monstrosities?

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    1. We do think that to a large degree it is the neglect of the previous fifty years which must, very largely, account for the present state of country houses like this one throughout Hungary. We do agree that the stuffiness of The National Trust is a small price to pay for the preservation of all our cultural heritages.

      Yes, the Co-op is a dreadful 'blot' on the landscape of the park, well within sight of the house.

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  15. I'm afraid those magnificent houses will not be valued until there are few of them left.

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    1. You are most likely right, Z. We shall most likely all end up crying over spilt milk!! And by then it will be too late.

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  16. There is so much beauty in all the architecture of these buildings, they are so amazing. Thank you so much for posting them :)

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    1. There is, as you say, Launna, wonderful architecture to be found in houses such as these and we much enjoy visiting them and experiencing all the beauty, and sadly at times neglect, for ourselves. The National Trust of Great Britain remains a marvellous institution.

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  17. Dear Jane and Lance,
    I know that it's really sad that these beautiful houses are in such a terrible state of disrepair and, hopefully, someone will save them but, there is something very mysterious and haunting about them when they get like this. When I was in my early teens, some friends and I walked over the fields, climbed fences and risked arrest !! to explore a wonderful stately home that was in exactly the same state. We explored all of the rooms, without the benefit and protection of hard hats, imagined who had lived there and pretended to be them, played hide and seek throughout the grounds, hiding in beautiful Romanesque follys and dry waterfalls. I rememeber it as if it were yesterday, although it was over 45 years ago !! The house is still there and, is being renovated, no doubt to host weddings and events so, it is now a great house again.
    I do hope that Cziráky-kastély will eventually be restored to its former glory by someone who has the money and a love of old buildings. Amongst all of your wonderful friends, are there not a few zillionaires that might want a desirable residence in Hungary ?!! XXXX

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    1. Jackie, you capture here with your description of breaking into and roaming around an empty mansion exactly the kind of thing we have always loved to do. And there is, as you say, something very romantic and wonderfully evocative about seeing houses of this kind in their ruinous state and conjuring up images of how they once were.

      At one time, when we were old enough to know better, we would prise open the windows of empty Herefordshire rectories and vicarages to explore them simply for the magic of it all. You would, we feel, make a superb partner in 'crime' with you past experience!!

      We have no idea of the future of the Cziráky-kastély but think that if something is not done soon, then it will be too late. As for zillionaire friends, we need to consult our address book - sadly, none comes to mind!!

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  18. So then, has it come to this because of lack of funds or lack of interest? Or a bit of both? Apart from the fact that allowing it to get to such a state will hasten its decline expediently, I must admit to rather loving it in a tattered state. Sometimes, when touring these National Trust properties, they are so perfect that they almost look new, whereas it is rather wonderful to see some of the patina of time. Some, though, being the important distinction.

    This isn't some....this is SAD!

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    1. Where The National Trust tends to fall down is, as you say, in achieving that 'patina of time' with the result that, very often, their premises have a somewhat sanitised appearance. Getting the balance right is never easy. However, the state of so many of the houses here is very, very sad and a cause for great concern.

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  19. what a shame! but, also, I must admit, that I find the photos you took of it in disrepair quite beautiful.
    I work in a outdoor museum that moves historical buildings that are no longer used and falling down to the museum where they are restored and refurbished to their correct historical period... (the museum only moves buildings that are going to be torn down anyway, as it's always best to try and leave them where they are)so this whole post is something that we consider in work quite a lot!

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    1. There is, of course, something wonderfully romantic about this house in its present state but in the long term, and not so long, we think that it cannot remain in its present state and will, if nothing is done, become beyond repair.

      Your work sounds most interesting. We have a similar type of museum on a site outside of Budapest to which, rather as with you, old buildings have been moved in order to preserve them.

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  20. Hello Jane and Lance, this post has made me feel very sad. It seems as if that poor house has had it's very heart ripped out, and the lovely little chapel, with bits torn off, it is all very brutal. Thank goodness for the N.T.,at least it has made us appreciate our heritage, to some degree at least.
    'Where there is a will there is a way', but it does depend on whether or not the people of Hungary have the will. Thank you for highlighting this for us, have a lovely day, love Linda x

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    1. You use the word 'brutal', Linda, which really is so apt when one considers the way in which this wonderful Neo-Classical house and its charming Baroque chapel have been treated by those who should know better. It makes us sad too and we do have sleepless nights thinking of possible solutions. But really the problem is too great for an individual. As you say, we should be so thankful for The National Trust and the way it is allowed to operate free of all State control.

      At present we perceive no will. Thus even greater sadness!

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  21. That is indeed a post to be very thoughtful about... the comparison and the pictures of the falling-apart beauty of that mansion (beside that vulgar little mall) wow... just unbeleivably enchanting and sad... But beautiful still, in all its decaying glory!

    Hugs,

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    1. The comparison is, we feel, of interest not least, putting money aside, as it represents two very different approaches to a country's heritage. But, yes, there is something beautifully sad about this particular house in its present state.

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  22. Well, we have discussed the National Trust previously and I think we all tolerate the "stuffiness" for the sterling work they do. Of course, for ruins, we have English Heritage, which I never joined but the crumbling walls of which the kids seem to find much more exciting than baroque furniture and dark protraits of long-dead "nobles" (though swords were always a fascination of course). Talking recently with some of the attendants at Dyrham, which is our "local" NT property, I was struck by the enthusiasm and love which each individual volunteer had for the place and for heritage in general. Perhaps this is engendered by a feeling of tradition and nostalgia that maybe has been eroded in countries where there was the communist hiatus in culture. Could this be from where the complacency appeared? Is it simply a question of finances or is there a deeper disregard for the past in general?

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    1. Indeed, The National Trust and their approach to the preservation of the properties in their keep will always be a open to debate. In general, and on balance, we think that most of us would totally commend and support their work for without it the alternative, as seen in Hungary, is largely unacceptable.

      It is interesting what you say about the volunteers of the NT who, we somewhat assume, are largely from the established middle classes. Such a group does not, in anything like the way we are familiar with, exist in Hungary which, of course, with a population of less than 10 million has fewer reserves, both in terms of people and money, to draw upon. Furthermore, we see no evidence in Hungary of the kind of nostalgia and feeling for tradition which supports so much of the British heritage.

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  23. What a hauntingly beautiful house. It is such a shame but there is always hope, it was not that long ago that historic buildings in Britian where treated with a lack of regard and look at the huge change in culture since. Fingers crossed for the future.
    What a priviledge to wander around without hoards of others. I bet the house spoke deeply to you?
    Janette xxx

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    1. 'Hauntingly beautiful' is, Janette, such a very good description of this mansion which, even in its present state of disrepair, does still command a certain dignity. What is needed is, as you so rightly remark, a change in cultural attitudes. But is there time, for it is certainly running out?

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  24. What a beautiful place to live...live those old houses...love it all....xxx...hugs Ria...

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    1. It could indeed be, as it once was, Ria, a wonderful house. But we shudder to think at what cost and then, of course, a purpose and use have to be found.

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  25. The saddest part, for me, is being able to (maybe naively) glean that this building is not 'beyond repair'.
    Yes, the costs would run high, but with TLC, patience, skill and mostly, a large injection of pride, I think that Cziráky-kastély could knock spots off it's British 'twin' in the beauty stakes.

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    1. Certainly, Lucy, if restored, then we should agree about its being able to hold its own when compared with any house of comparable size in Britain. What alarms us is the fortune required to restore it, and then there would be a second fortune required to furnish it. As for the park, well.......!

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  26. Such a shame, poor lovely neglected house! x

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    1. It is a great pity indeed to see this, and so many other properties within Hungary, in this state, Suzy. No easy answers, we are afraid.

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  27. Hi Jane and Lance,

    It's a shame such beautiful buildings that hold so much history between those doors are so neglected, especially when the state is the owner.
    I'm happy to see in Romania many things have changed, including renovation of some of the most historical places.
    Thanks for sharing the pictures, I love old buildings and history!

    Hugs

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    1. Yes, as you say, Petro, it really is rather shaming that the State is not better able to look after historic buildings such as this one.

      We are interested to learn and somewhat heartened to know that in Romania things are changing with a regard to how such properties are cared for.

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  28. What a striking comparison and what a smart way for you to illustrate for us the vast differences between preserving historical properties.
    I must admit I chuckled at the second photo when I realized that was the custodian, but the more I looked at the photos the one sad thought that came to mind was that the whole thing looks as though it should crumble down, and it probably will do so. I hope the custodian is well out of the way when that happens.
    The 1960's era co-op plunked on the grounds really says it all!
    Thanks so much for sharing.

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    1. The custodian, or more accurately caretaker, was extraordinary and all the while we could not help but think of arriving at a National Trust property in comparison. He came with his dog, parked his bicycle in the hall, asked if we wanted to see inside the chapel, in which case he would open it, which he did, and then spent the rest of the time reading the paper under the portico. As you say, Dani, not a very safe place to be!!

      And as for allowing that Co-op to be built in the park! Aesthetics?!!

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  29. What a shame that something that was once so beautiful could fall to such ruin. In today's time when budgets are so tight, and priorities must be made, the funding for estates like this is minimal. However, it looks like this has been left to deterIorate for quite a long time, and little or no care has been given to even make it safe to tour. Unfortunately, this is the case all too often for historical architecture and once it gets to this point, there is little that can be done.

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    1. As you say here, Arleen, we do fear that very soon no amount of money will be sufficient to restore this house to anything like its original grandeur, let alone furnish it or attend to the park. To some extent its present condition is a result of the years of Communism when such places were unacceptable to the regime, abandoned by their owners and either put to institutional use or left to decay.

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  30. While it is a great pity that there is such a long queue for buildings like this awaiting restoration, the immediate concern is stabilization. If water (the greatest enemy of historic buildings) is kept out, and the foundation kept in reasonable repair, then there is hope. I hope that they have secured this house to ensure that its condition does not worsen.

    That cheap-looking co-op really stand out like a sore thumb. Even if they had to build it on the grounds, couldn't they have given it a little more dignity?

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    1. Everything which you say here is so very right, Jim, and overall our impressions would be that the roof has been attended to for within the whole place felt dusty and dry and there was very little sign of damp or water seepage. That said, the side service and guest wings were rather worse than the main building and we did not penetrate the cellars!

      Yes, the Co-op building is outstandingly ugly.

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  31. So very sad. As someone who lives in North America, I am in awe of the old buildings in Europe. So see one so beautiful in such a poor state makes my blood boil. It's even sadder to me knowing that Budapest is one of the most lovely cities in the world. Sadly I think this building is beyond repair and will fall into ruins before too long. Thanks for opening our eyes to this tragedy.

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    1. Thank you so much for your very sensitive response, Heather. We actually do think that, in whatever way possible, the state of buildings such as this one should be highlighted if for no other reason than to heighten public awareness.

      And we do so agree with your generous comment about Budapest.

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  32. oh my! it is beautiful even in its decline. where will the money come from to save it? in these lean economic times it is so hard. our beloved kimberly crest mansion, next door neighbor which is lovingly cared for by the residents of redlands is in dire need of about 2 million dollars for repairs. where will that money come from? preservation is so important and yet it is often last on the list when money is needed everywhere. i hope this can be saved. xo

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    1. When we consider the state of the economy of Hungary at this present time, Janet, but always, of course, as outsiders, then it is very easy to despair. But clearly, even in the United States to which the rest of the world so often looks for solutions to problems, it is worrying to think that you too face similar issues.

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  33. I fear that will be the future for many heritage buildings around the world as restoration and preservation is not a vote winner these days. Passionate volunteers are left to provide resources- both time and financial - of many 'non-essentials' these days, but there aren't enough to go round. Oh, if only we ran the world!!!

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    1. You are right, we fear, the political will is just not there to divert scarce resources to the particular cause of restoring and maintaining these buildings which are, after all, of National significance.

      And, it is a most interesting point which you raise about volunteers.In the UK many projects would simply not exist if it were not for legion numbers of such unpaid helpers. But, we find in Hungary, that there is no 'tradition' of volunteering and, indeed, there is often suspicion about those who do volunteer. This does make progress even more erratic and difficult.

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  34. Oh, how sad! Such difficult times, though, no? So many times I've wished for some genius to come along and solve the problems - there must be someone who can sort the mess out? but, that's such a child's point of view. Yet, I still wish....

    but, boy, it must have been a tremendous experience to poke around and explore like that. Could you hear the whispers of the ghosts? Or have, even, the ghosts left and there are just the whisper from the walls of the building, itself? Do you know what I mean, perhaps?

    The adventures that you two get up to! =]

    Love,

    Katy xoxo

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    1. Oh, Katy, yes, we know exactly what you mean about the whispers of the ghosts. We could certainly imagine them walking the long, dusty corridors on the day of our visit!!

      Of course, for us, we rather like the freedom to explore at will these near ruinous buildings without a care for health and safety. It all takes us back to our youth when clambering through open windows and poking around long abandoned shells of houses was our regular entertainment. And now, we encourage this with our two friends, Zoli and Viktor, our partners in 'crime'!!!!

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  35. A terrible shame, Jane and Lance, to see assets - especially assets like Cziraky-kastely - slide backwards. It's Ruth Watson, isn't it, who does Country House Rescue? She's the one needed here, if it wouldn't overwhelm even her ability.
    A good kick-start, a bit of life, ideas and enterprise...I don't know if money in itself is the solution. It's people wanting to get up and get going.

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    1. We do not know of Ruth Watson, dear Faisal, but if she is the woman to rescue a country house then she is needed urgently in Hungary.Or, on second thoughts, an army of Ruth Watsons would be good!!

      We do so agree that money, although an essential and important factor, is not the only consideration here. An entrepreneurial spirit, with financial backers and an army of unpaid supporters could do the trick. We dream of the day that someone will come along with the know-how to actually make it all happen. What a legacy that would be!

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  36. I wonder if you might have wandered into an encounter with long departed visitors in a place like that. You have to imagine what a marvel it once was and can't help feeling a bit sad to see how it stands now - though it retains it's own loveliness. The Food Coop building made me smile - seem no place is safe from the reach of kitsch.

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    1. The Cziráky kastély is in many ways hauntingly beautiful which is why its state makes us deeply sad.One can, on visiting, well imagine how it once was although imagining how it could be takes more creativity.

      The Co-op building is, as you say, incredibly kitsch. Colour, style, you name it, it really could not be any more out of place!

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  37. Thank you for another wonderful tour.

    How is it that Cziráky-kastély and grounds were done in English style?

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    1. The Cziráky family had travelled to England and had seen the 'English style' for themselves. In the name of the fashion of the day, it was translated into the grounds at Lovasberény!

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  38. How very sad. But there is hope. Thomas Jefferson's Monticello sat in ruins for about 50 years before it was recognized as a national treasure, and colonial Williamsburg was nothing but foundations before it was brought back to life.

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    1. thank you, Mark, for raising our spirits. Clearly, where there is a will, there is also a way. After all, we have put men on the moon, haven't we?!!!

      Perhaps, the crux of the matter is, first,to get these most glorious buildings recognised as National Treasures and then, there may be a willingness to develop a plan of action for their restoration.

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  39. Oh wow, what a sad, sad thing to see a lovely property go to ruin like that.

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    1. It is, we agree, very sad. But, we shall not give up hope yet. That would be too dreadful.

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  40. The architecture is amazing but I especially love that painting in the chapel. Thank you for all the kind comments and visits to Pura Vida.

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    1. The wall paintings in the chapel are very attractive. The delicate pastel colours used to paint them are enchanting and the whole place has a most charming ambience with fantastic acoustics, which we tried out!

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  41. England is a very rich country in comparison to Hungary and I truly admire how Great Britain looks after its heritage so well. I don't know much about the Hungarian 'character', but I think there would be a lot of goodwill towards money being spent on restoration of magnificent buildings, but only if people had confidence in restoration not being a corrupt process where many enrich themselves.

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    1. Yes, Andrew, you have hit upon a crucial point here. There are too many years of corruption where public funds have been seen to have been frittered away rather than spent as intended. As a result, nobody wishes to pay taxes into the public purse since they do not believe that they will see anything for it. We just hope that there will, one day, be a way in which funds can be both raised and secured for their purpose.

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  42. When seeing the results of neglect at Cziráky-kastély, it makes me grateful to the National Trust and English Heritage for keeping hundreds of our treasure houses and gardens secure for future generations.
    It is really sad to think that if Cziráky-kastély and other similar properties are not given some attention soon they will simply fade away beyond salvation. Such a beautiful house, and a glorious painting in the Baroque chapel.

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    1. Yes, Rosemary, it is a sobering thought to think that so many English houses, gardens and other places of significance could have been lost without the stewardship of the National Trust and English Heritage. Hungary provides a devastating contrast in this regard.

      The Baroque chapel is a delight and its wall paintings are truly delightful. Oh, how we wish that it were cherished and voices could be heard singing within its walls once more.

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    2. What an enormous shame they let so much beauty degrade in the claws of time. I am so in love with the chapel and the partially restored painting.
      So much beauty, you seem to be most inspired when you're looking for true beauty :). So many kisses for Jane and Lance :)

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    3. The chapel, Petronela, absolutely appealed to us with its wonderful wall paintings and its beautiful setting at the very heart of the park. Would that it alone could be restored for it would make the most perfect setting for summer concerts. But, we ask, who would go? So sad, so very sad.

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  43. Unfortunately it is not just Hungary, it is all over the world that some magnificent historic buildings have gone into neglect or simply torn down for new construction.
    What a marvelous building it is but in a very sorry state. Hope the government and the people get behind the project and bring it back to it's glory.

    Best wishes

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    1. A wonderful thought and wish and one that we most certainly share. Alas, as we go about the country and see so much of worth falling into disrepair, it becomes more and more difficult to retain a degree of optimism. And what you say is so true, it is not simply a Hungarian problem but one which is increasingly an international one.

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  44. Dear Jane and Lance,

    The scenes of Cziráky-kastély just make my heart ache. The magnificence of this almost lost heritage and architecture is so very sad. An adventurous person might imagine the results of restoration work-in-progress as a way to encourage interest from the outside world. I am drawn to the haunting photos you have taken inside and particularly those taken from windows. The romantic in me can imagine stories of those who graced the halls and rooms in another era.

    A restoration may not aim to bring this amazing structure to the pristine status of Osterly, but a restoration (salvage) of its structure and the chapel might bring travelers and supporters to its saving.

    Your photos with the contrasts between the two properties is an appropriate comparison. I hope that you got a shot of the caretaker riding in on his bicycle with pup close behind!

    Bises,
    Genie

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    1. When compared with so much of the wonderful architecture which you show of Paris, Genie, it all becomes a little sad making. We thought that the other day of the 'Passage' which you posted in comparison with similar in Budapest which are so dearly crying out for sympathetic restoration.

      We do so agree with what you say here about some start being made towards some kind of restoration of the Cziráky-kastély which might arouse public interest and heighten awareness amongst agencies who might be in a position to help.

      We actually were able to take many, many photographs on the day. Sadly too many to publish but we do have the caretaker on his bicycle, dog in tow!!

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  45. Did it not make you weep to see such a former glory stripped to the echoes? Such a sad sight, though I assume the caretaker's duties include watering those two forlorn foyer plants.

    It's as if a proud lady has been reduced to poverty not of her own making, and is beyond patching even her petticoats. ARE there other well-kept state-owned estates?

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    1. 'Stripped to the echoes' so beautifully encapsulates the whole atmosphere and fabric of the building, Rachel. And we are so pleased that you noticed the plants in the hall - such an anachronism. In other rooms there were attempts at photographic displays with the photographs hung onto bare brick and in one place curtains were hanging!! Enough said!

      We have visited other properties which are in a much better state but nowhere, regretfully, can be said to equal those of, for example, The National Trust or English Heritage.

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  46. I always think empty houses look so forlorn and need a bit of love and life brought back in to them. Your comparison with Osterley Park makes the contrast that much more stark. Did you have to pay much to visit it? I'm amazed that they let the public in, I assume they are not so obsessive as us about health and safety. I hope that it doesn't fail into greater decline.
    Sarah

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    1. Actually, we did remark on a total absence of anything which could be considered as 'Health and Safety' and did wonder if there was any Public Liability insurance. We think that we know the answer to that one! Certainly in Britain the public would not be allowed access on the grounds of safety.

      As it happens, Sarah, our friends gave us for Christmas a season ticket which enables us to visit all properties in State ownership in Hungary. But the normal admission for this particular house was 200-Ft. [about 60p]. Robbers!!!

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  47. Dear Jane and Lance,
    Truly a sad posting you bring us today, made even sadder by the fact that Cziraky-kastely is not alone on the precipice of neglect and decay. What I find distressing beyond the obvious is the loss of monuments to the builders how have long passed from memory. When you think that every inch of such builds were touched by human hands. Hands that shaped stone and wood with out the aid of modern machinery. When we as a world society lose any one of these grand structures we lose a little of ourselves, who we were, what we were able to achieve through sheer will power. So sad, so very, very sad.
    But as you and your post have shown there are many of like mind, so maybe not all is lost. Perhaps one day such beauty will return by means of restoration and repair of all and not a few. – gary

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    1. Oh, Gary, there are so many such properties on 'the precipice of neglect and decay' as you so splendidly put it. And, yes, we really do come away much saddened for houses such as this one are a real part of Hungarian culture and history and so desperately need to be saved.

      We are much taken with, and moved, by your thoughts of those who physically built these houses and for whom they do represent monuments, just as much if not more so than for the owners who commissioned them. And yes, as you say, perhaps at the end of the day their destruction becomes in some small way our own.

      Thank you for such an insightful and sympathetic comment.

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  48. Amazing architecture! They just don't build them like this anymore:)

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    1. Not only amazing architecture, with which we agree wholly, Mark, but also a social commentary on a place, a people and a time.

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  49. How very sad. Your photos are hauntingly beautiful, however.

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    1. Elizabeth, you are most kind.The kastély does have a beguiling quality which the photographs really do not do justice to. We find ourselves completely entranced by these Hungarian 'monuments' to times and people gone by.

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  50. Dear Jane and Lance,

    It makes me sad looking at the photo's and reading your story. What has happened to the castle? It looks like it has been stripped completely; no wallpaper, no fireplaces, no furniture.... It must be an enormous job to bring it back to it's former glory, but very much worthwhile. I hope a rich Hungarian will one day fall in love with the Kastély and make it look the way it was. The partly restored mural in the chapel is just beautiful.

    wish you a lovely evening!

    Madelief x

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    1. It is, we agree, exceedingly difficult to ascertain exactly how the entire mansion has got into this deplorable state. Some fireplaces, doors and windows were being stored in a room, but only a few.

      It is, as you are aware, in the ownership of the State and, as far as we know, this is inalienable, it can never be sold. The future does appear somewhat grim!

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  51. This post has me entirely silenced and contemplative. I feel it is one I will return to over the next few days after I've considered my response.

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    1. It does, indeed, give one food for thought, Suze. It continues to go round in our minds since we saw it. All very sad.

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    2. I think it is a sadness in the heart that prompts action -- in the right heart, perhaps?

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    3. But the difficulty becomes, what action? And how much is change actually desired? Vexed questions, indeed.

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    4. I know. I thought it even as I asked it.

      I took my grandmother for a drive through the historic district in my hometown, this weekend, and we speculated on what the bathroom and kitchen fixtures in these 100+ year old homes must look like. When such places are maintained at great expense and with care, they are simply gems -- not just the spaces but the custodians. It is a constant struggle against deterioration for which the cost never abates.

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    5. Older properties are, as you say here, a constant drain on diminishing resources. We do have some friends who have, in recent years, sold their quite large houses to move into something smaller in order to reduce the cost of upkeep.

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  52. It's sad to see such beauty not being sufficiently appreciated by the current state so as to restore it.

    Thank you for the photos!

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    1. Most likely it does come down to money, Rose, and even if restored some future use has to be found for it. Simply opening to the public would not, we feel, be feasible as there would most likely be insufficient visitors to raise revenue to maintain it.

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  53. What can I say...but wow! What an extraordinary building and art works and the statues!!
    I wish I could see this place...

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    1. It certainly is well worth seeing, Cynthia, and there are many other similar houses to be explored throughout Hungary. The pity of it is that the majority is in this kind of condition, or worse!

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  54. What a beautiful building it could be with some love. The old graceful lines still leak through loud and clear. The restored Osterly is utterly amazing. Wow, at the entry.

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    1. Love and a great deal of money, we think. But it is a remarkable example of its style and period and for that reason alone is worth preserving. Osterley, we do agree, Mary, is rather splendid.

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  55. Dear Jane and Lance, I surely trust that you will soon be setting off to take on the neglectful overlords! How shameful indeed! It must be so hard to visit and to see this disrepair in person. I think it a bit odd that the food co-op would have built on such a historic site. A wholesome and dedicated movement is certainly called for in your charming and enchanting country . . . perhaps while searching for your 'Mad boy' you might want to find a couple of activists for antiquity too. Poignant comparisons. Hugs from Massachusetts!

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    1. Oh, Carol, would that that could be the case!!

      It is, as you say, totally shameful and we cannot understand the apparent indifference to the whole situation on the part of the Hungarian government. But it could simply be just too big a problem.

      The Co-op Food Store would have been sited there deliberately in the Communist times as a means of showing 'Power to the People'. You would be horrified as this is but one of many similar examples. Such insensitivity is to be seen everywhere, alas.

      'Activists for Antiquity' - now that is some slogan!!

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  56. Wonderful architecture. I especially love how you captured the Barque Chapel through the window. Thanks for sharing :D

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    1. The chapel sits very close to the house, Suzanne, and is, or could be, really wonderful. The whole setting is magical.

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  57. I can only echo what most of you and your commenters have said already - a crying shame and not a wholly recent one either. This place has not been on a 'must look after' list for quite some time, has it. I do hope it's not too late. Possibly your words and the attention your posts draw might just trigger something helpful...?
    Axxx

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    1. We do sincerely hope, Annie, that it is not too late but if truth is to be told, then we are not that optimistic. The problem is that this is simply the tip of a very large iceberg with so many other country houses in a similar, sorry state.

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  58. The pictures of Osterley are stunning...I believe that I could live there quite happily (perhaps as a Jane Austen character).

    I too feel awful at the sad ruin of these lovely estates. I believe that they should at the very least be put to use of some sort. I am sure there are many, many ways to keep the history and architecture alive even in the hands of an industrious civilian. Here in the states there is an ongoing push for people to live in historic homes and open them once in awhile for the public to appreciate the craftsmanship and forgotten ways...such as a simple thing like the servants staircase. So many ideas are rumbling around in my head just thinking of the possibilities...

    I must say, your choice of word invidious was genius! Seldom do I see such wonderful linguistic art such as that. Thank you so much!

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    1. Osterley would, indeed, make a suitable setting for characters from a Jane Austen novel!

      What you describe as happening in the United States does sound to be an excellent way of utilising historic houses whilst giving the public an opportunity to see and visit them. The problem here is that, in comparison, there is very little money and to restore such places requires so much. Sadly, we live in a country where the poor and the not so well off really are struggling daily.

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  59. Dearest Jane and Lance

    It breaks my heart, as I am sure it did yours, to see this beautiful building neglected. I am at a loss for suggestions. A TV Series such a Downtown Abbey, where Hollywood or a major TV Studio would restore it up might be a solution. But under no circumstances will we petmit it to be used if Sylvester Stallone is the star. Poooofff.There will be no dynamite.
    I am going to read all your comments and see if one of your readers has a solution.
    With fondness,

    Helenxx

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    1. Exactly that, Helen, and we always come away from such places feeling hopelessly inadequate. But your suggested solution, minus Sylvester Stallone, has made us laugh.

      Whatever, it is we feel a wonderful privilege that we do have the opportunity to explore houses such as this one in a country which continues to bewitch and enchant us.

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  60. oh I hope one day the building can be restored, I just love old buildings and finding out the history, the lives of the people who have had a connection to the place....the story.... so fascinating.

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    1. We very much hope so too and on a positive note, as we remarked to another commentator, the roof at least does appear to have been made water tight and the whole place did appear to be dry.

      Yes, it is fascinating to think about the lives of all those connected with such houses.

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  61. Hello Jane and Lance - isn't Osterley Park where MI5, Churchill and others met during WWII?
    The store on the Mansion's parkland...would that be a Communist store? It has the look.
    I hate seeing buildings fall into disrepair; it's so sad.

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    1. We think, possibly, Sandra, you may be thinking of Bletchley Park where the German secret codes were decoded.

      Yes, the Co-op is indeed a Communist store and does look rather dreadful, and particularly in that situation!

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  62. With a few notable exceptions, Communist rule has not been kind to either civic or noble architecture. But then, here in America, Capitalist rule has not fostered handsome civic or noble architecture in recent decades, either. Reggie

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    1. This is very true. Recently we looked at a series of images of the London skyline which show a city now, in our view, completely ruined by poor quality modern architecture and a complete disregard for scale. Not so in Budapest, despite a troubled past, where the Danube panorama remains outstanding.

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  63. To see such a fabulous building left to rot is heartbreaking. Once buildings like this are gone, they are gone forever. Nothing like them will ever be built again and they are at least beautiful, which is more than you can say for the co-op store.

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    1. We do so agree with you, Jean, and there are many others like it all over Hungary. It is, we feel, a huge problem and one which, at the moment, fails to be addressed.

      As for the Co-op, well........! Words do indeed fail!

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  64. This is a very interesting post and discussion. As I have been reading I have been wondering about the residual impact of the communist regimes within the eastern bloc countries - and whether we are seeing a kind of 'social depression'? Eveb though the British have been through periods of penury eg post WW2 I wonder whether the support for National Trust in its efforts to restore ancient buildings also expresses the idea that grand houses are part of society, whereas in places such as Hungary there has been a notion that they should not be. And yet, with the fall of the Berlin Wall and collapse of Russia perhaps there is some conflict about this... I may not have expressed this very well...

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    1. Christine, we follow your very well formulated argument exceedingly well and in it you raise a most interesting point. i.e. that in Britain there is the idea that 'grand houses are part of society' whereas in Hungary, certainly from all the evidence we are able to glean, this is not the case and, if it were ever so, the cultural impact of Communism on a country which has been left poor in a way unknown to us, runs very deeply indeed. What is more, a large number of the population hanker after the previous regime when full employment, little in the way of taxation, food on the table, etc. etc. were the norm.

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    2. Hmmm You suggest that the fall of the wall and collapse of communism ( from a person from a non-communist country's viewpoint,may well have been quite a distressing, if not traumatic event. Something to think more on.

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    3. Certainly, Christine, the fall of Communism has had a much greater impact on countries of the former Eastern bloc than may well be generally realised. People in Hungary are, as we see it, now sharply divided. On the one hand a small, but significant number, have gained hugely and become very rich since the collapse of the old regime, largely through being in the right place at the right time and knowing the right people. Hungary is, and we deeply regret having to say this, a very corrupt society. On the other hand, the vast majority of ordinary people are experiencing escalating prices, job losses, repossession of homes, reduced pensions, all things which were previously unheard of. And if asked, as we might but no longer do, but now there is freedom to travel, the reply is invariably, yes, but there is no money to do so.

      We very much appreciate your returning to comment further and for the interest which you clearly take in a country which is for us so very strange, but one which we have come to love deeply.

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  65. Hello Jane and Lance, as you point out the comparisons between the two buildings go to show the value each society puts on it's heritage, however lack of funding is obviously at the forefront of the problem. It is heartbreaking to see such beauty decay with each passing year, and yet in this country town planners sweep away streets of stone built terraced houses, which could be restored at a fraction of the cost it takes to throw up ugly modern boxes. I love to see old houses and industrial buildings restored to their former glory, which quite often involves a change of use. Perhaps this may be the answer in this case, move away from making the building a stagnant museum piece, but in the meantime restore the fabric of the building to be enjoyed by future generations. So much better than a pile of rubble.

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    1. You are so right, Susan, when you point to lack of funding being one of the root causes of the problem. We too deplore the way in which town planners in Britain dispense with much solid, and not unattractive, Victorian architecture at the stroke of a pen.

      Whereas in Britain large country houses have, very often, been converted into apartments, thus giving a new lease of life, it is unlikely here that the same would work as there is no local employment, the apartments would be beyond the reach of the majority, and most people prefer brand new!

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  66. That really was heartbreaking. The communists ruined so much with their scorched earth policies... leveling the culture of the individual countries. This is what you have to show for it. The comparison with England was inspired. What can be done??

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    1. It does sometimes appear to be, as you say, Deana, a 'levelling of the culture' of a country and to some extent that is exactly what has taken place in Hungary. For the moment, we expect little to change, particularly at a time when the economy is in crisis.

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  67. Do you think the contrast in care and renovation of old buildings reflects two types of society?
    One, in the U.K., where a declining caste transformed themselves into 'heritage' conservationists with access to some public funding and the other, in Hungary, where that caste was unable to recreate itself and was thus excluded from access to funding?

    That said, how tragic to see these buildings in such decline.

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    1. Yes, we really think that the cultural differences between British society and that of Hungary are immense, and certainly far, far greater than we ever anticipated when first we came to live here. What is absent here is a solid, long established middle class who, whatever their other values may be, care very deeply about what they see as their National heritage which, of course, includes the preservation of old buildings.

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  68. You must feel very lucky to have had a chnace to roam this beautiful buliding. What a find and how sad that it is now almost a ruin.

    Have a lovely weekend Jane and Lance.

    Red

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    1. Indeed, we to feel not only lucky but also very privileged, Red, to be able to live in this most interesting of countries at these times of great social and other types of change.

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  69. Of course, the socialist in me loves seeing the food co-op close to this once beautiful old mansion. I would hope that the people have all they need to eat and live well enough, and then if there's money left, it would be so great to see the building restored. (I know you feel the same.) It is magnificent even in its present condition. Perhaps time will allow a return of wealth while there is still time to save the mansion or some rich American will come along and fix it all. Meanwhile, it is still a sight to see and I too would love to explore it.

    For some reason I found your blog hidden on my list. It was tucked away under the word "hidden" and didn't show up when you first posted. I will have to go explore what this is all about because I certainly don't want to miss any of your posts. Another Blogger mystery.

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    1. You are absolutely correct in the assumptions which you make about us, Rubye, and we should, like you, always put the welfare of those who are less fortunate, the vulnerable in society, over almost everything else. What we should wish to see is some way in which houses, such as this, could be restored and adapted to some contemporary use which would, ideally, be of benefit to the local community as well.

      Oh, dear, Rubye, more problems with Blogger. Currently we are unable to 'Manage' blogs at all!!

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  70. Oh jean and lance,

    This brought tears to my eyes...to see the heritage of your beautiful country going to rack and ruin...and that co op, my jaw hit the floor! Why would someone ever allow that!

    What can be done? I am seriously lacking in matters of current hungarian economics, are there any oligarchs here that can help?

    Enjoy your trip home and be safe, Elizabeth

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    1. The situation of the Co-op, Elizabeth, very much reflects the thinking which held sway in the Communist period when every attempt was made to undermine anything which could be seen as privilege. So, what better than to site a food shop for the people close to the house of former aristocrats dispossessed of their estates?!!

      Hungary is, very sadly, a country where the majority of people are having a real struggle to make ends meet.

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  71. Osterley does look safe and secure, and rather lush as well. If Adams walked back in there today, he would immediately recognise many of the interior elements as his own.

    But how many once-gorgeous British stately homes also ended up in rack and ruin? It could have happened for any number of reasons - the family couldn't afford to pay for death and inheritance taxes, the house was destroyed during WW2, or one son or grandson spent the family money on gambling. In some cases, the family money was made on some industry (eg fine cotton goods) where the bottom fell out of the market. Even gorgeous Chatsworth was going to be half or fully pulled down :(

    I suppose the writing is on the wall for tragic Cziráky-kastély

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    1. Of course, Hels, there was a period after the War when country houses the length and breadth of Britain were being demolished at an alarming rate. Indeed Roy Strong, as a very young director of the Victoria and Albert, staged an exhibition, which we attended, in the early 1970s on 'The Destruction of the English Country House'. It had enormous impact and highlighted public awareness sufficiently to bring about a complete volte face.

      Something similar is needed here before it is too late.

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  72. So very sad Jane and Lance. If we don't appreciate our past, how can we move forward? The Co-op store is offensive - surely you know someone who is handy with explosives?!

    I hope that this beautiful building will be rescued. It deserves it.

    Hugs, Stephie x

    PS How was last Sunday?

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    1. 'Offensive' is an exceedingly good word for the Co-op in that situation, Stephie. We shall get in touch with our tame terrorists immediately!!

      Last Sunday, thank you, was a huge success both for choir and, we think, bishop who turned out to be very jolly.

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  73. Sad really... that Osterley Park doesn't have it's very own co-op in it's grounds! I passed a church the other day (the red brick variety) that had been closed for many years but has now re-opened, much to the relief of the great unwashed of that area, as a carpet and rug shop. It's very difficult preserving One's standards in a decaying world so we had a quick look around it.

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    1. We are, of course, like you, Mitzi, at a loss to know where those living in the vicinity of Osterley shop for food. Must be all bought on line, poor souls!

      We also know of churches, usually non conformist ones, turned into carpet shops. Very strange.

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  74. How sad.

    But, maybe this is that fixer-upper you were looking for!

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  75. oh how very beautiful...a tragic ghost of a once great building......and how very sad......we are lucky we have so much saved and restored for us to enjoy!!

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    1. It really does sadden us greatly but there is, alas, very little that, as far as we can see, to be done to change things.

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  76. oh what an absolute crying shame! Just makes you wish you could flick a magic wand and produce the cash needed to save such a beautiful piece of historical architecture.

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    1. We are inclined to think much the same. Our greatest fear is that without the aid of a magic wand it may prove to be a lost cause. Only time will tell.

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  77. It is devastatingly sad, isn't it? and with no hope in sight for restoration, especially in view of this extremely tight economy. It will, I am afraid, be left to the mercy of philanthropic pockets to salvage!

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    1. Yes, we are sure that you are right. We just hope that the 'philanthropic pockets' will be deep enough!!!

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  78. Wonderful, if heart-breaking, post and photographs, Jane and Lance. The Cziráky-kastély looks almost on the point of collapse in places and I imagine the cost of restoration from such a parlous state would be prohibitive. I don't always enjoy the excessively pristine condition of National Trust properties, but better that than decay and slow death.

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    1. Although the Cziráky-kastély is indeed in an appalling condition, enough of it remains for one to still see its former glory and to envisage what is possible should the necessary funds become available. We remind ourselves of the phoenix that was Uppark rising from the ashes after being burnt to the ground. So, it is possible to breathe new life into this handsome house and we sincerely hope that it may just happen one day!

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  79. A renovator's delight indeed! Very sad when these properties almost go past the point of no return and it seems only miracle can save them.
    It also illustrates the vast wealth of the original owners in comparison to the everyday people, in being able to keep up such sumptuous residences and maybe how things have become a little more balanced.

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    1. We fear, Penny, that it may well be reaching the point of no return, at least as a financial undertaking. Yes, we do agree about the enormous wealth that families such as the Cziráky family must have had, acquired over generations and handed down.

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  80. Sad to see such things, dear friends...
    I, too, hope that someday soon restorations may begin on this, and other outstanding Hungarian properties. The situation was similar in Odessa a few years ago. Right now many of the grand estates and buildings are restored, but I imagine mostly thanks to private funding.
    Hoping for the best in Magyarorszag.
    Warmest regards,
    - Irina

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    1. It is interesting what you say here about Odessa, Irina, a city we should much like to visit for, as we understand it, it has some very splendid architecture. We are pleased that the future, at least there, is looking somewhat brighter.

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  81. I can't help but wonder why there shouldn't be a law which states all old buildings should be restored before any new ones are built and then more monies would be available for restorations.

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    1. Certainly this is a view we share, Linda. We see so many 'greenfield' sites being built upon whilst 'brownfield' ones are abandoned and remain as eyesores for years on end. It really makes little sense.

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  82. Dear Jane and Lance,
    Thank you for your kind post. It has been busy here, but we are muddling through. Yes, I am incredibly proud of Alexandra, and all those around her. I do hope that in years to come, other families will not go through what we have had to endure.

    The photos that you posted here... wouldn't it be lovely if a renovator could begin restoring???

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    1. Alexandra is an enormous credit to you and it is so heartwarming to see a young person galvanised into doing something positive when it could have been so easy to just do nothing and feel sorry for herself. The sum of money raised is truly outstanding!

      If only there could be the same enterprising spirit here in Hungary for the restoration of these wonderful old buildings. One can but hope...!!

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  83. Dear Jane & Lance. The Cziráky-kastély is a beautiful ghost of a property, I hope that at some point that there will be a turnaround in its sad decline so that it may flourish once more.
    Paul

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    1. We really do hope the same, Paul, but we are very doubtful if there will be an improvement in the situation in the foreseeable future.

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  84. A beautiful building and so sad it has fallen into such a state as this. Let us hope that with increasing prosperity comes increasing appreciation for things from the past.

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    1. Unfortunately, Alan, at the present time there is no indication of any increased prosperity of which you write. Walking around a part of Budapest only yesterday afternoon we were very conscious of how much needs to be done in the way of the restoration of old buildings.

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  85. Dear Jane and Lance
    The comparison you made between the two cases is amazing. Certainly in England there is a state concern for the preservation of historic houses that something in Hungary, as in Greece, does not exist . It is a pity because such architecture I believe that there will be not in the future.
    Thank you that you shared with us.
    Have a nice week
    Olympia

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    1. Although it receives less in the way of publicity at the moment, largely on account of not having adopted the euro, the economy of Hungary is not at all dissimilar to that of Greece and, as you will know only too well, Olympia, at such times there is little money set aside for anything other than essentials.

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  86. Dust to dust...is what comes to mind...this old world is fleeting...beauty from ashes also comes to mind...wow..you two have made a philosopher out of me!

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    1. A very realistic point of view, Phyllis. And, in the final analysis, how important is any of it?!!

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  87. Thank you so much or your sweet wishes :)
    Hugs,
    - Irina

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    1. It is our pleasure, Irina. We trust that your week has started off well!

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  88. Outraged. On the other hand, given the mess that has been made by restorations under one terrible regime after another (asbestos? concrete? rubber linoleum?), "benign neglect" at least leaves room for a dedicated and productive restoration, time and climate permitting. If only.

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    1. This is, of course, a very good point. Perhaps the present state of affairs is, on reflection, rather better than some makeshift attempt at restoration which actually only serves to inflict a worse mess.

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  89. It is very sad indeed to see what can happen to beautiful, historical buildings when neglected...money is the main reason obviously as for the maintenance of such beautiful establishments a lot of resources are necessary (sadly love and care are not always enough). It is a worry for many countries that are not as wealthy as others. A cruel reality unfortunately. Hope you are well J & L. Always a pleasure to visit your blog x :)

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    1. You are absolutely right, Claudia, the present state of buildings like this one, with almost no funds available to maintain them, is a cruel reality. The sad thing is that we can see no likely change in the foreseeable future, by when it may be too late.

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  90. What a sad sight. I have mixed feelings about the restoration of buildings. On a practical and pretty well every level, I know that the Osterley way is the way to go. But on a purely selfish and romantic level, I sometimes feel that the ruined and ruinous houses are the most entrancing and fascinating and thought provoking. The very precariousness of their existence makes them special, and they still retain a whiff of their REAL existence in the REAL world. National Trust houses, though wonderful, remind me of places in retirement. They're not going to change, they have finished their active life and have now been transformed into tourist attractions. Whereas Cziráky-kastély shows its history, and shows what the Communists thought of it.

    But having said this, I hope that some Hungarian Octavia Hill and William Morris come along and start a National Trust to save such wonderful buildings. Because my romantic impracticality is really just self indulgence.

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    1. We find what you write both of interest and very thought provoking, Jenny. You have, we feel, expressed here what we have long felt about the National Trust but have never really formulated, that their properties are, to use your words, 'in retirement', but even more so that 'they're not going to change'. And perhaps that accounts for the kind of sterility, despite the Trust's best endeavours to humanise them, that pervades so many of their houses.

      But, yes, if we have to choose, then we should in all probability be with Octavia Hill in that through her inspiration these places are here for us today whereas those like the Cziráky-kastély may well not be a part of our tomorrow.

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  91. Hello! Thank You very much for beautiful words!

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    1. You are more than welcome, Amin. We always enjoy looking at and reading your posts.

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  92. You know that I do not know the English well...And I want to say it is very historical place! Thank You very much for these beautiful photos!

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    1. We think that you manage English very well indeed. Yes, it is a very historical site and one that should, we feel, be preserved.

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  93. Replies
    1. We wish the same to you. It has been very warm here but has become cooler these last few days.

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  94. Ah, this is so sad to see. Something that strikes me, and perhaps it has already been said among the many other comments, is how much I wish an international fund were available to help with preservation of these buildings. These historic buildings are important to all of us and should not be Hungary's burden alone.

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  95. Hi Jane and Lance,

    Interesting comparison, and great photos. It's sad to see such a beautiful old building looking so neglected. And on the other hand the lovely one in England shows the potential for how wonderful old buildings can be when restored and well looked after.

    All the best,
    Clare

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