Wednesday 29 August 2012

Sole Delight



Inside the church of San Sebastiano they are rehearsing for a concert. Otherwise we are totally alone. All around, in what surely must be one of the most beautiful interiors to be found in Venice, the paintings of Paolo Veronese, rich in colour, postively glow in the morning light. Here joy abounds in the splendour of textiles, the transparency of glass, the opalescence of gleaming marble in column, turret and tower, the fullness of figure, the whole a pageant of sixteenth century life.


the somewhat unassuming facade of the church of San Sebastiano which belies its interior


the warm, redbrick frontage of the church of the Madonna dell' Orto in Tintoretto's parish

Across the Grand Canal we revisit the Gothic masterpiece of the Madonna dell' Orto with its Greek marble columns in imitation of watered silk. This was Tintoretto's parish church, and here he is buried close to his vast and truly magnificent works of 'The Worship of the Golden Calf' and 'The Last Judgment' which fill the lofty chancel walls. But most wonderful for us, and of which we never tire, is the 'Presentation of the Virgin' over the Sacristy door with its pre-Redemption world cast in shadow whilst the Virgin child, Hope of Humanity, stands poised at the summit of a flight of steps, radiant against a Venetian sky. Again we are alone.


one of the wonders of Renaissance Venice, and indeed the world, Santa Maria dei Miracoli


the approach to the church of the Redentore, Palladio's mathematical wonder, on the Giudecca

No-one disturbs us either in the exquisite Santa Maria dei Miracoli or in the Scuola di Santa Maria del Carmine where, for €5, we are permitted to gaze with certain wonder at the wondrous ceiling in the upper salone painted in 1744 by Tiepolo. With a lightness of touch, and employing the shimmering pinks and blues so characteristic of his work, nevertheless the deep piety of this great eighteenth century artist reaches out to the observer some 250 years later. We cannot resist the purchase of a keepsake, a picture postcard, of 'Un angelo salva un operaio devoto alla Vergine'.


a mediaeval archway, pre-dating the present building, in a quiet Venetian courtyard


the narrowest street in Venice, Calle Varisco, to be found in the Cannaregio district


a scene which is so quintessentially Venetian and yet one which remains largely unseen

But in all of this there is a great sadness. Or so it is for us. It is a well known fact that the number of trippers, for such alas they are, now daily outnumbers the resident population. For Venice has become an acquistion on the tourist trail. A city to be ticked off today, for tomorrow will be Florence and the day after, Rome, before the flight home.


a typical Venetian street scene which, away from the crowded tourist trail, stands deserted


a side canal, one of many, many similar, to be found beyond the reaches of the Grand Canal


a sixteenth century well-head in the Campo della Maddalena with today's washing set to dry

With cameras clicking, posed pictures of each other, water bottles protruding from ubiquitous backpacks, these sightseers follow furled umbrellas from the Rialto to  the Piazza San Marco plugged in to earphones through which a commentary is relayed, their only engagement to check a text message on a mobile telephone. Not a Baedeker in sight! Meanwhile, a mediaeval city of church, palace, scuole, calle, court and canal passes by. They look but they do not see.


church and calle so closely connected in a city which can never be fully understood or known


the Porta della Carta dividing the Doge's Palace from the Cathedral church of Venice at evening

Such is the paradox that this loveliest of all cities remains, for the most part, a beauty unseen. And as we wait for our bus under a darkening Tiepolo sky at the Piazzale Roma, we mourn the fact that within a few hours at The Accademia the Titian exhibition will open. And we shall be gone.

N.B. We shall hope to return to the Serenissima with a future post.



250 comments:

  1. I am in awe of this beautiful post. AWE!

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    1. We are delighted that you have enjoyed the post. Thank you for your kind comment.

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  2. 'The look but they do not see'...all too accurate.
    How sad it is that people come to 'tick the boxes' with their cameras and miss the real life of the area which they have come to visit.

    Your photographs took me back a great many years...but it was, or seemed to be, almost always foggy then and you've brought me sunshine.

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    1. Happily, one can still find areas of Venice, even at the height of Summer, which are away from the madding crowds. Indeed, even in the space of a single street one can be alone and it is a joy to see scenes which have changed so little over the centuries.

      We enjoyed warm, sunny days on our visit, only broken by a thunderstorm on our departure. However, Venice always has the most extraordinary light whatever the weather we find.

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  3. You always write so beautifully. I have been there 3 times, the first time, 30 years ago, was in the dead of winter, foggy, deserted, magnificent. Each time I've been since has been with greater sadness at its descent. The last time, in February 2010, we were required to pay €50 for 4 of us to use the vaparetto to get from the big car park into the centre. And that was with 2 small children. Crazy. It is a machine for milking tourists now, sadly. How great that you sought out and found its still quiet parts. And how typical of you! xx

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    1. Thank you, Grant, for your most kind and generous comment.

      Our first visit to Venice, as yours, was several decades ago, and it certainly was a very different experience from today. When the price of a coffee in St Mark's Square [which, of course, we did not have], is, at €10 the same as that to enter 20 churches, then something is definitely adrift!

      Please do not tell anyone about the delights of Cannaregio....!!!

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    2. I fear it is too late...someone from The Guardian has been stalking you.

      http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2012/aug/29/venice-that-tourists-miss-cannaregio

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    3. Oh dear, oh dear!!!! Let us hope that the tick box tourists do not read the Guardian newspaper!!!!

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  4. Your pictures and descriptions are glorious, and bring back happy memories of my one trip to Venice, and the transcendental beauty and spirit that is everywhere there.

    My strategy for dealing with the crowds was, every time I saw one, I went the other way. When I was in Florence last year I had the feeling that it isn't a real, functioning city (in the way that Milan is) but one that is completely devoted to tourists. However Florence is big enough that it was possible to find quiet neighborhoods and streets, something that I remember as rare in Venice.

    I'm sorry you missed the Titian exhibit. The Boston Museum once had a fascinating exhibit of TItian, Tintoretto and Veronese.

    Thank you for sharing this--your posts always make me want to travel!

    Jen

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    1. Venice is, we feel, rather like a rich cake and can only be digested in small bites. So, the need to return, and return for on each occasion one does see a little deeper and one does discover the 'real' Venice which, rather endearingly and surprisingly, can reflect life as it might have been in the C16.

      We fully intend to go back to Venice before the Titian exhibition closes and how marvellous that you had the opportunity to see the works of those great Venetian painters in Boston.

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  5. I have always wanted to visit Venice, but alas, I have never had the opportunity. I do so though enjoy reading and seeing pictures of places of such interest and beauty.

    Your point on sightseers spending more time getting just the right picture instead of enjoying the scene is so true. I have done that on occasion only to regret the time wasted on taking the postcard picture while missing the experience at hand.

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    1. Venice really is, Arleen, a wonder of the world and we are sure that you would delight in seeing it should ever the opportunity present itself.

      One cannot take any pictures inside the churches so they are wonderful places to simply immerse oneself in the architecture, the art and the atmosphere of the place. They really do lift the soul to a higher plane in our view.

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  6. That first photo really grabbed me with that high expanse of sky the boats in the foreground and the buildings in the background and a bit of a misty feeling to the air. Somehow I never thought of this before but I am amazed that the whole city does not fall in on itself deteriorating and crumbling away. You have captured the feeling of the ancient city as nary a tourist did I see; I think that is the best way to view such a tourist trap with all the visitors being or becoming invisible.

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    1. The first photograph of the gondolas moored with a background of the island of San Giorgio Maggiore in the Venetian lagoon was taken in the early evening when the light was absolutely magical and the warmth of the day still lingered on.

      So much of Venice is under threat, Linda, and it is a constant battle for its preservation as a World Heritage site. There is, however, much evidence of restoration work throughout the city but the peeling plaster and crumbling stucco have enormous appeal for us. We are sure that, as an artist, you would find great inspiration in Venice for your work.

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  7. I'm sorry we hadn't met up with you there, that would have been so nice ...

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    1. Indeed, indeed. We do so hope that there will be other times!!

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  8. A truly amazing set of photographs accompanying a post with the usual thought provoking commentary. Wonderful!

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    1. It is always with surprise that we find that we have achieved a half decent photograph of anything! Capturing Venice without a person we thought to be a challenge but, even at the height of Summer, it was easily achieved.

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  9. I haven't visited Venice since my childhood, but your photos took me back in the loveliest way. I don't know how you managed such wonderful shots, devoid of other visitors. It's as though you visited 100 years ago, and all the Venetians were either in church or at lunch! Gorgeous!

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    1. We are so pleased that you have enjoyed the opportunity to revisit this, in our view, most magical and intriguing of cities.

      The lack of visitors can be easily explained by the fact that there are still many areas of Venice which are never seen by the casual tourist. We trust that this may for ever remain the case....

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  10. Greetings Jane and Lance. In this homogenized world of gadgets and supersonic pace, we are too pre-occupied to see. We go to Venice and Paris and Rome to tell the world we have been there and of course to shop :)
    I had very interesting discussion with my banker this morning, she said, "life is going very fast, summer is gone". I told her my dear life will keep going fast, you need to slow down yourself and start enjoying each and every day and every moment.

    Best wishes

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    1. Oh how we fear you may be right about the C21 world in which we live. And yet,happily, there are still those who are moved by the breathtaking beauty of these wonderful cities and can blot out the hordes and reflect on the lives which have passed before on the very streets we can walk today.

      What words of wisdom you give here about savouring every moment. It is indeed something which we try to practise, rain or shine, summer or winter, at home or abroad. Life is fragile and, as you say, short!

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    2. Fortunate are the ones whose eyes are open and they see and absorb the beauty around us.

      When my chemotherapy started, it felt as if I had hit a brick wall at 60mph. My life went upside down. I learnt the lesson, I live one day at a time, I enjoy every moment, every bite of food, fragrance of every flower and try to absorb all the beauty around us. I try to take all the negative thoughts and feelings out of me (it is a struggle) :) I try to be happy and try to share with others what ever happiness I have.

      Best wishes

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    3. We can absolutely identify with everything you say here. Chemotherapy is both hope and horror and it certainly does serve to bring life into sharp focus and to heighten one's awareness of everything around one that one holds dear.

      It is certainly not easy to put negative thoughts behind one, but in making the effort to do so, life is enriched for both you and those to whom you are close. We can appreciate the challenges you have faced and continue to face, your banker would be well served to heed your advice!

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  11. How breathtaking and how sad. I didn´t know that was what was happening now in Venice.

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    1. Venice is an intriguing and beguiling mix of joy and melancholy. We shall certainly never tire of it.

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  12. I think this is the main reason I've never had a desire to travel, or I should say be a tourist. It makes no sense to me to simply go around marking off places in the world as having been "seen". Rather, to be able to spend quiet calm time in a place as a member is quite attractive to me. The photos are beautiful and each has a certain serenity to it as seen through the eyes of someone who truly sees. Thanks for sharing this.

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    1. We do indeed feel extremely privileged to be able to visit and revisit so many wonderful places from here in Central Europe. We agree that one needs not to feel under pressure when visiting in order to feel a real sense of place and to enjoy the many beauties that there are to be seen.

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  13. Dearest Jane and Lance - Welcome home.

    You say "they look but they do not see" which is a very sad but true statement. Also more sad that there is not a Baedeker in sight. Not so with you, not so.
    Your opening image had me gazing for a minute at the Santa Maria della Salute.
    Visiting San Sebastino brought back beautiful memories of celebrating mass in that church, as we always stay in Dorsoduro. Violetta, my Jewish art partner attended mass with us and on leaving with tears in her eyes whispered "One can feel the prayers said here for several hundred years".
    Your post and descriptions and the pace in which you travelled and lingered has me yearning to return.

    Ciao bellas

    Helenxx


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    1. How beautifully Violetta captured in words that occasion with you in San Sebastiano. We shall treasure these. It is indeed a place of great beauty and, even though one is surrounded by great masterpieces, there remains even today a sense that local people come here to worship as they have for centuries.It is a most wonderful feeling to think that we have been in the very same place that you too have visited, somehow the many miles that separate us have melted away for a brief moment!

      We too always stay in Dorsoduro when visiting Venice and shall reveal more of this in a subsequent post.

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  14. Such views and such meditative words---even those of us who have "tasted the cake" only from guidebooks and picture-books and great gulps of travelogues can feel the presence of such grandeur. Those unseen flowers and deserted alleys and laundry-lined cliffs of windows are not merely the frame, but the picture.

    And the solitude---that's the beauty multiplied, I think.

    Though I'm supposed to be in a flurry of cleaning-before-the-cleaning-people-arrive, I must go now to the bookshelves and the great oracle Google to look again at the pictures you mention. Your five Euros divided amongst us thousands of readers---a bargain indeed.

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    1. Yes, Rachel, the solitude is indeed the beauty multiplied. And, in spite of the dizzying numbers of tourists, it is still possible to walk alone by empty canals.

      Oh how we love your description of the 'laundry-lined cliffs'. We find them enchanting and, also, reassuring as they do speak of ordinary lives being lived behind the Renaissance walls.

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  15. When I visit Venice, and I'm sure I will, I will stay for a week or longer to try to get a feel for the place. I'm sure a day, or an afternoon, won't be long enough.

    Sx

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    1. And, Miss Scarlet, we suggest packing a pair of 'flatties' as the bridges will play havoc with the high heels!!

      We just know that you would adore Venice!

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  16. This is the Venice I would like to see when I eventually get there.
    (I finally managed to get myself copies of Extraordinary People and A Garden in Lucca following your recommendation).

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    1. Oh, Tracey, the thrill of a first Visit to Venice!! Be sure to arrive by train as the view of the Grand Canal as one leaves the station will, we are certain, remain for ever imprinted on your soul!

      How clever of you to track down the books. We do so hope that you enjoy reading them.

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  17. How true and how sad...the tick box tourist. Here in the Loire we see them by the bucketloads at Chenonceau. They come down for a day or two from Paris "to do the Loire".

    Love, love Venice which I have visited many times both in and outside the high season, And how accurate your beautiful photographs--if you step just 1 millimetre off the beaten tourist trail you find beauty and tranquility in abundance.

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    1. Dear Niall and Antoinette, a day or two to 'do the Loire' is surely more than time enough. After all, Venice has 117 islands, 177 canals and 409 bridges, the Loire is just a single river!!!!!

      It is extraordinary, as you say, that one street will be impassable for the crowds and yet, running parallel to it, will be totally deserted. And yes, whatever the season, there is always some new delight to be discovered and savoured. It is an endlessly fascinating city.

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  18. Ahhh.......Venice.....one of the most beautiful spots in the world. You pictures give us such a wonderful view of this city. Was there many years ago.....stayed at the Gritti Palace (sp.) very close to the Bridge of Sighs.....will NEVER forget this experience.

    You brought up wonderful memories for me today....thank you for this.

    xo

    Jo

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    1. How splendid to have stayed at the Hotel Gritti Palace and to have enjoyed the most wondrous views across the lagoon from that marvellous C16 building. Lucky you!

      At present, the hotel is shrouded from view as, it would appear, major renovations are being undertaken. Perhaps a return visit should be made when they are completed........just a thought!!

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  19. I've not been to Italy, so thank you for the great photos and descriptions. It really does look like a terrific place to visit.

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    1. Italy is absolutely full of the most wonderful cities and countryside. We are sure that you would love it but would be spoiled for choice as to where to begin!

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  20. 'But most wonderful for us, and of which we never tire, is the 'Presentation of the Virgin' over the Sacristy door with its pre-Redemption world cast in shadow whilst the Virgin child, Hope of Humanity, stands poised at the summit of a flight of steps, radiant against a Venetian sky.'

    This stunning passage made my chest seize with an unnameable emotion. Even those who do not see, someday will. All of us, together, taken into His everlasting arms with every tear wiped permanently away. For now, they are gathered in heaven's bottles to be tipped out in the fullness of time.

    This post has a particular profundity about it, an inherent awe. Just beautiful.

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    1. Dearest Suze, how you have brought tears to our eyes with this most enchanting of comments.

      We wish that you too could have been there to see this masterpiece in all its glory for we know that you would have been transfixed by its beauty and inspired by its simple and yet profound message of salvation.

      We are left now with your glorious image of the tears of the world in heaven's bottles....

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  21. It is such a beautiful place. I am always angry at myself that I seem to only ever go for 3 or 4 days at a time. Each time we have been over recent years, we say, we must come and stay for a month. Your post, as always, is wonderful. thankyou for sharing these glorious images and words. J.

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    1. There is so much to see in Venice that even a month would not be enough, we fear, but, for ourselves, we find that short breaks of three or four nights away are often the best. To leave still wanting more is good we feel as one always wants to return.

      Thank you for your generous comment.

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  22. Although I've been to Italy many, many times, not once so far have I made it to Venezia, and so it is with fascination that I look at your pictures and read your descriptions.
    How wonderful and astonishing that you had the place almost to yourself! Is it because people really don't know about the churches and streets and smaller waterways and courtyards you visited, or because they can't be bothered to step a little off the beaten track, I wonder.

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    1. We are certain, Meike, that you would simply love Venice. Perhaps you could think of it when next planning a visit to Italy?

      In spite of the fact that some of Venice's greatest works of art are to be seen in its churches, we feel that, in general, tourists have no interest in seeing them. In nearly every case, they are deserted whenever one visits.

      Many people visiting Venice do so as part of an organised group and so they form part of a particular trail through the city that never ventures very far from St Mark's Square. It is easy, therefore, to avoid them and, for many others, they simply have no interest or sense of adventure to explore the back streets. Long may this remain the case....it is the only salvation for the true traveller!

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  23. I love the first photo, especially. The blue gondolas with the cathedral rising in the background is lovely and oh-so-atmospheric. The narrow street, the pink towel hanging from the yellow pensione(?) above the canal, and the cathedral's courtyard, all fascinating to me. To travel with a sense of history and to really see is the only way to go. It looks and "sounds" like great fun.

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    1. The early evening light over the lagoon is especially captivating and it was our intention to capture this in the photograph which heads this post. The island of San Giorgio Maggiore just rising out of the water is, we agree, breathtaking in its beauty.

      To travel with a sense of history is, absolutely, the only way to go. And, that could not be more true than when in Venice where the centuries feel just a footstep away.

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  24. Dear Jane and Lance,
    thank you for these beautiful photos and your interesting text on Venice! I can understand the mingled feeling about tourists - some strange ways of ticking off the 'main sights', hastily moving on. But: 'Down but not out' - a few weeks before you might have spotted a young beautiful couple, Baedeker (NOT as an App!)in hand: son and daughter-in-law went to Venice for a few days to celebrate their first wedding anniversary, always admiring art and architecture and poetry.
    PS: Maybe we'll meet you next time in Harry's Bar?

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    1. Down but not out indeed, dear Britta!! How our hearts have lifted at the thought of your son and daughter-in- law, Baedeker in hand, exploring the riches of Venice.

      A reliable source informs us that we should be enthusing for Harry's Dolci on the Giudecca these days. But, whatever, a meeting in Venice would be fun!

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  25. "...the whole a pageant of sixteenth century life."

    So beautifully said! I do hope to visit Venice someday, I have wanted to for more than twenty years, but it take money and that is something we do not have much of. So I take pleasure in your photographs and dream that I was standing right there too.

    Thank you so much for sharing this!

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  26. As always, beautiful photos! Thanks for sharing with the rest of us!

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    1. We are pleased that you have enjoyed looking at them, Rose!

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  27. Paul Fussell complained that "travel has been reduced so entirely to tourism that one can hardly use the archaic and honorific term anymore except ironically." But you have shown that by really exploring a place as you have done with Venice, you have revived the true concept of travel, evading the crowds and discovering those remarkably beautiful sights along the way.
    --Road to Parnassus

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    1. We fear that we may well have much in common with the late Paul Fussell....social commentators or curmudgeons....we could be classed as either too!!

      To be travellers and not tourists is our greatest wish.

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  28. I enjoyed your photos and a bit of a tour of Venice. My dh and I spent time in old Rome and in Florence, but somehow neglected Venice, quite an oversight! We like Donna Leon's mystery series, set in Venice.

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    1. Perhaps a return to Italy is called for? And, surely,next time you must visit Venice since it is truly a wonder of the world.

      Following in Inspector Brunetti's footsteps would be enormous fun. Donna Leon does capture some of the atmosphere of the place in her books, but there is nothing to compare with the 'real' thing!

      Thank you so much for leaving a comment and we hope to welcome you here again!Now we shall seek you out!!!

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    2. Thanks for this reply and for the comment you left on my blog; I hope the follow button is working next time you visit. It is working right now! Now I must read some more of your posts here.

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    3. We think that it might be a problem with us. However, we will return and follow, but it may take a day or two to resolve the issue. Meanwhile, thank you so much for becoming our latest Follower.

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  29. Dear Jane and Lance - thank you for this travelogue on Venice; it's a city I want to visit when I return to Italy. Your photos only fuel that desire -smile-.
    Difficult tourists of any nationality are boorish and best taken in no doses but, failing that, small doses.

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    1. We know that you would be totally charmed by Venice, dearest Sandra, and would, like us, be adventurous enough to explore the back streets and dark alleys that provide the most exciting surprises and the signs of real life in a city which can too easily be thought of as a museum.

      Of course, we should hope that you would 'pop in' to Budapest en route!!

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  30. Beautiful, beautiful Venice. Your pictures are stunning and so evocative - and if most tourists don't 'see' we are so lucky that you certainly do and have shared what you see with us. I have only been once and loved it - the sensation of the place stays with me still and I must go again.

    I just wanted to tell you that my husband is at this moment boarding a plane to Budapest on his way to a conference. I so wanted to go with him and perhaps bump into you two! So I'm going to go back over your posts and tell him what to head for if he has any free time. I'm so envious, though wouldn't want to go to his conference - on Edward Bond, the British playwright.
    Axxx

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    1. Oh, Annie, how you should have boarded that plane for we should have been delighted to welcome you! How extraordinary that there should be a conference on Edward Bond here in Budapest but, then, all manner of strange things seem to happen here!

      Venice is glorious, we agree. No, once can never be enough, a return visit is surely all too long overdue.

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    2. I should, I should! It's curious the number of places one finds Edward Bond's name - he's big in Avignon too. Don't care too much for his work, it's tough stuff, but it's my husband's life's work and he and the author get on well together. Bond won't be there himself this weekend though.
      Maybe Cesar will come back and immediately whisk me off so I can see Budapest myself. Maybe. Axxx

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    3. If there is any chance of that happening, then please let us know immediately when we should be thrilled to show you some of the less well known sights of this magical and very strange city.

      We are most interested in what you say about Bond whose work, we feel ashamed to admit, is unknown to us. Please do not reveal this fact to your husband!! Or, indeed, to Bond himself!

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  31. Dear Jane and Lance - it is some years since I last visited Venice - one of those places that always beckons you back. You highlight a serious predicament overtaking many of our wonderful cities of the world. "I want to be there, but I do not want everyman and his dog there with me too". However, as you mention, you can turn your back on the groups and wander straight off in the opposite direction and gems can be found wherever you visit, often just a short walk away.
    I really like your photo of the side canal - perfect - and not a soul to be seen.

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    1. The freedom to travel inexpensively has opened up so many opportunities for so many people and we do applaud this. However,in the case of Venice, perhaps particularly, the smothering of the local population by the sheer volume of tourists makes for an uneasy balance.

      But, it is still possible to escape the masses and to experience the local life of Venice, to see great masterpieces without hindrance and to drink in the beauty and atmosphere of this most beguiling of cities. Long may this continue.

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  32. What a great visit for me to see what you have seen. I appreciate your interest into the historical detail and the history of the place itself. The picture of the water lapping at the columned steps is intriguing. Water to land is the only means to arrive. Thanks for sharing this.

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    1. It is strangely curious that the Renaissance, Gothic, Classical and Modern all stand side by side in Venice.The passage of centuries is evident everywhere one looks and yet the signs of C21 life are there too. It is an intoxicating mix.

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  33. One of my favourite places in the world. I love getting lost in Venice, in those canals and calle away from all the tourists. It is a place that awakens a strange hunger in me. Beauty and decay, side by side. It is indeed sad that, for most people, it is just another place to tick off their list of 'cities I must see before I die'.

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    1. Yes, to be lost in Venice is the perfect way to discover its secrets! It is a city with a haunting beauty and you are absolutely right when you say that decay is all around and yet it is exquisitely beautiful. A beguiling and atmospheric city, often deeply melancholic too!

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  34. I am so jealous, I have always wanted to go to Venice. Your photos are amazing. Diane

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    1. Then, Diane, you really must make plans to go for we are certain that you would find it totally fascinating and wonderfully beautiful.

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  35. We so enjoyed our stay in Venice. It's truly a magical place, particularly in the evenings when all the hoards seem to wash back to the mainland. Then the quiet and beauty is ethereal.

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    1. We are so pleased that you found Venice as wonderful and as magical as we do. Yes, the evenings are the best time of all and, as you say, the crowds seem to disperse as the sun starts to set!!

      Thank you so much for your comment; we shall hope to welcome you again.

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  36. You have re-awakened my love of Italy with this wonderful post and beautiful photographs. It has been too long, I must rectify that.

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    1. Italy truly is the most wonderful of countries and Venice, of all its towns and cities, especially so. We consider ourselves most fortunate to have such a city within relatively easy reach of our home here in Budapest.

      Yes, we urge you to revisit, Elaine.

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  37. Dear Jane and Lance,
    What beautiful spectacular photos of Venice. Showing us the areas that are really true Venice, away from the tourists, its here one gets the feeling of the real daily life.
    Rome I visit.. but somehow , venice I tell myself will be next time.
    Your photos of all the old palaces , the dowerger's palace, the canals all wonderful.
    So pleased that you had a good time.
    Its sad to see these tourists with ear phones and not even taking down anything that they really see. It reminds me of the tourists that arrive here at our wonderful heritage sights take photos , get back on the bus and off they go.
    Thank you to you both, for once again sharing part of your time in Venice.
    val

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    1. You are so very generous about our photographs, Val, which are, we do assure you, taken with the most basic of cameras.

      Many of the pictures were taken in the Cannaregio district which is, on balance, our favourite area and almost entirely unvisited by the mass of tourists in general. Do make time on your next Rome trip to spend a few days in Venice. You will be richly rewarded.

      We can well understand how, in the beautiful area in which you live, you too suffer from an influx of tourists who, in the main, are totally lacking in all discrimination. Such a pity.

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  38. We love Venice and your photos are so wonderful and so empty of people! I'm glad you were able to get away from the crowds and enjoy Venice without the crowds. We liked exploring the areas away from the tourists too.
    Sarah

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    1. As you will know from your own experiences in Venice, Sarah, it really is surprisingly easy to lose the crowds who, in the main, never stray far off the beaten track. What appalled us most were the number and size of cruise ships, each resembling a featureless floating block of flats. Ghastly.

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  39. Hi Jane & Lance,

    That's where you have been! I already missed you :-) A beautiful post of this amazing city, which I will hopefully visit one day too. Meanwhile your words brought me to the San Sebastiano, through the Grand Canal to the Santa Maria del Miracoli (such a special name :-)). Our middle daughter visited Venice last year for the Biennial, like you she saw the tiredness of the city.

    Sorry to hear you missed the Titian exhibit.... You never know what's on at the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam next year!

    And about the tea in the garden....well on a beautiful May day in 2012...you never know what may happen :-)!

    Have a lovely evening!

    Madelief x

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    1. How really kind of you to say that we have been missed. You would, we know, find Venice endlessly fascinating in that rather sad, tired way as described so well by your daughter. Perhaps one day we could all meet there? Such fun!

      And how strange that you mention the Rijksmuseum for we were only talking about it yesterday, neither of us ever having visited it, and rather hoping that perhaps next May there might be a possibility - along with, totally differently, the SS Rotterdam. And now there is talk of tea in the garden - we are counting the days! xxx

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  40. There you where...in Venice !!...great pictures....welcome home,...!!...love Ria...xxx...

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    1. Thank you so much, Ria. Not exactly hiding, but having the most wonderful time!!

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  41. it really is sad to see so many people "plugged in" and not looking or experiencing the sights/sounds around them first hand! i saw this while i was in los angeles, even among my own krewe while we were all sitting in the same room! (texting ended very quickly!!!) i'm looking forward to seeing more of your pictures, sugarpies! ;~) xoxoxo

    (i've posted pictures of my grandbabies! *LOL*)

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    1. We do so agree with you and wonder why they have gone to the time, trouble and expense of visiting somewhere in which they appear to have no interest. As for the texting....enough said!!

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  42. Your photos and your words do evoke Venice. It has always been a tourist town, surely, though - although there's something rather depressing in the residents being outnumbered by the visitors. I daresay Venice will survive this as it has survived other uncomfortable situations. Thank you for a beautiful post.

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    1. Yes, of course, throughout its long history Venice has attracted tourists in large numbers but never before now, or so we feel, quite so many without any kind of understanding or discrimination at what they are experiencing. Each time we visit we become just that little bit more aware of how little of 'real' life is to be found within the City.

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  43. Welcome back !Oh, you were in Venice !! Great photos of this beautiful town !It is a pity that you left when the Academia opened .. Another time .. Thank you for sharing your photos with us .
    Olympia

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    1. Indeed, Olympia, we were sorry just to miss the Titian exhibition at The Accademia which is, of course, a wonderful gallery. But, as you say, another time!

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  44. Love, love, love this post. I enjoyed my visit to Venice very much. What a lovely city and I had such a great time.
    The photo of the narrowest street is fantastic !

    cheers, parsnip

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    1. This is so kind of you, Gayle. Venice truly is the most wonderful city and we are so fortunate to be able to visit often.

      Yes, the narrowest street is really quite something.

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  45. I love all these pictures Jane and Lance they are amazing:)

    I just wanted you to know I am doing so much better and my "D" has messaged me and we talked, thank you for all your great and wonderful comments:)

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    1. Venice itself is, of course, amazing and a very spiritually uplifting kind of place, Launna.

      We are so pleased to know that things are improving for you - just give it all plenty of time.

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  46. Jane and Lance, Such beautiful photographs. Venice is a place I have often longed to visit. I am not fond of tourists and yet this is where I often find myself. I usually try to find a path no one else has found.

    The mention of a Baedeker sends me back to "A Room With a View". I took your advice and revisited E.M. Forster. I am lost without a travel guide and a good map. I will be the one standing in an alley trying to figure out exactly where I might be. It is always good to have a post from you. Bonnie

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    1. Although Venice is hugely crowded, Bonnie, it is not at all difficult, once off the main tourist route, to find oneself completely alone. And the churches, which architecturally are superb, and which contain wonderful works of art, are invariably empty of people.

      E.M. Forster is one of our much admired C20 writers; we are so pleased that you have gone back to him.

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  47. At perhaps the height of the season, it is of concern that there were so many places where you were alone. The numbers of tourists has always put me off visiting places like Venice.

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    1. It is our experience, Andrew, that in the main the average tourist, many of whom are part of a group, are afraid to stray too far from anything instantly recognizable. This is certainly so in Venice.

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  48. One does so adore Venice, and these lovely photos bring back many happy memories of days spent on end wandering through Venice. One also recalls having one's walking companion lean a little too far out over a canal to find his way, and then seeing him fall into the canal, just like La Hepburn did Summertime. Most amusing, indeed! Reggie

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    1. What a splendid tale, Reggie, and indeed we should have been greatly amused and then felt somewhat guilty at laughing at the misfortune of others!

      Venice, off the beaten track, remains as lovely as ever. You must both return.

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  49. I was so looking forward to a trip to Venice this year to celebrate a special birthday. Ryanair were running frequent flights from here last year. Imagine my disappointment when they decided not to do this year. With many Italians living here on the island there are, of course, other ways of doing it, but the best option so far is to fly from UK next time we are over. My consolation prize was Madrid however, and I haven't given upon Venice. I am currently reading a novel set there and your lovely pictures really help me to capture the scenery.

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    1. What a huge disappointment for you, Marilyn, although we are certain that Madrid, which we have yet to visit, more than made up for it.

      We also have a problem reaching places as there are very few cheap flights from Budapest and not so many direct destinations. Happily we can travel to Venice on the overnight bus which runs twice a week.

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  50. I really enjoyed walking about with you....the photos convey the ancient beauty. I think too many tourists cram too much into a short time and get so overwhelmed....the old, "seen one church, seen them all" attitude. Intimacy comes when we are open to the world around us...at that very moment. They just happen to be more interested in being intimate with their modern gadgets. Humanity has to learn everything the hard way.....wisdom comes with age......

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    1. Certainly what you say here about so many tourists trying to see to much in too short a time is very true. But that 'intimacy', which you so accurately describe, once found remains for all time.

      And yes, where shall wisdom be found??

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  51. A wonderful trip Jane and Lance and the delights of Florence await you. A breathtakingly beautiful city . On a clear day I would recommend taking in the views over the city from Piazzale Michelangelo.

    I very much look forward to your account of your visit there - a city I would happily revisit.

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    1. We are keenly anticipating a visit to Florence, Isobel, although when that will be we are, as yet, unsure. But in preparation, whilst in Venice, we bought a 1930s guidebook to Florence, 'Saunterings in Florence' by E. Grifi which is subtitled 'A New Artistic and Practical Hand-Book for English and American Tourists'. Can we go wrong??

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  52. Oh how I love Venice...magical, wonderful, amazing...there really are no words to describe it. You are so lucky to be there. Enjoy.

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    1. We are so very pleased that you too, Adrienne, share our love of Venice. You are right, there are no words to describe it - one must simply experience it.

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  53. Italy's Amsterdam but without the whores! I've been to Venice 3 times, always on a cruise ship, with over 3000 passengers waiting to disembark, well, you can imagine. Venice by night is magical with few tourist about and no pigeons bliss. Last year, we were docked next to the ill fated Costa Concordia!

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    1. Mitzi, can it really be true that you were on one of those ghastly floating blocks of flats which dwarf the skyline at Tronchetta where they 'park up' for a night or two? Your presence will, we are certain, have lifted the whole experience to give it that certain je ne sais quoi and a definite frisson!!

      At night, as you say, utterly magical.

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  54. Hello Jane and Lance:

    Your photographs are lovely and I truly appreciate images of Venice never before seen (by me!). I hope one day to go – I know the architectural details alone would be so inspiring!

    Mark

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    1. Mark, if ever there is a city which you, personally, should visit, then it is most certainly Venice. Your appreciation of art and architecture, combined with your extensive knowledge of these subjects, would be richly rewarded.

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  55. Dear Jane and Lance, Thank you so for sharing these hidden treasures. What a delight your words and images bring to this longing soul . . . I have yet to visit Venice. Only in my dreams. How long were you there this time? What I love most about this post is your title and the absence of any people . . . you are so clever. You will have to share your map with me someday. Enchanting article! Warmest regards from the foothills of the Berkshires in Massachusetts. Carol

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    1. Dearest Carol how you would so appreciate and love Venice. Of course you would have to see the main tourist attractions, St. Mark's Square, the Doge's Palace, The Rialto, but we know that it is all of the unsung, largely unnoticed details to be found around every corner which, with your careful and observant eye, would so appeal to you and which would become for you treasured memories. As for the paintings, everywhere, they are indeed the stuff of which dreams are made.

      And from a still warm and sunny Budapest we send our love.

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  56. Unfortunately I sell tours to 'box tickers', but I think most people would love to 'imbibe' a little more if only time and finances would permit. That is my dilemna all the time. I must admit I felt a bit sad when I visited Venice. As amazing as I found it, it just felt like a beautiful lady, slowly declining with age, whose lovers had deserted her. Or something like that!

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    1. But possibly, Penny, amongst all of those 'box tickers' to whom you sell tours, there will be on occasion those to whom you have in fact sold a life enhancing, enriching experience. We are certain of that.

      And yes, there is something very melancholic about Venice, made more so with the departure to elsewhere of more and more Venetians.

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  57. "They look but they do not see." The tragedy of modern tourism, it seems. The writer at Windy Skies wrote similarly for his country of tiger tourism: "The word about 'Ol Stripey soon got around as forest guides worked their cell phones informing their colleagues, on duty in other jeeps ferrying tourists around the forest reserve, and no sooner I turned my head after trailing the tiger in the grass to my left, a succession of jeeps had roared to a stop behind our own." It's the same with certain birders. Such a shame, everything becomes a notch on the belt, with no sense of authentic discovery. I've never been to Venice (one of my many lacks!), and should I ever get there, I would want to see it your way.

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    1. This saddens us further. Not because we are unaware of what you describe here, Susan, taking place in the natural world, but it brings home even more forcibly the destructive nature of modern tourism. Of which, in some small part, we are all guilty.

      We do so hope that you will one day visit Venice for, notwithstanding, it is a truly wonderful city.

      Thank you so much for taking the time to comment. It would appear to us that you do not have a blog, but if you do, then please let us know,

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    2. Jane and Lance: It's me over at Prufrock's writing. I'm in the midst of a transition, and it's making it hard to comment with the right link-back. But it's me, and glad to see you there, as always!

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    3. All is made clear, Susan, and we too are glad to see you!! Your first comment came in in a different way without any profile or anything and so we were not entirely sure if it were you or not and opted to be on the side of caution and safety!! Hope the transition is progressing!

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  58. Jane and Lance,

    Your visit to Venice sounds perfect...how wonderful to have all of these beautiful spaces to yourself! I have been to Venice many times and I know exactly what you are talking about. Single lines of people following behind an umbrella and not really taking anything in. Venice is a magical and spectacular city and literally has something to see about every five feet. From the churches, and squares, to the architectural splendor of every building on this island, a feast for the eyes.

    I hope you have a wonderful time and cannot wait for more photos and fascinating stories.

    Safe travels, Elizabeth

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    1. You understand, as we knew that you would, exactly what we mean about the tourists in Venice, Elizabeth, and we should have expected no less than your appreciation of 'something to see about every five feet'. But what is so sad, as you must feel too, is that so much is missed by so many in a city which is deserving of the title 'unique'.

      We did have the most marvellous time, thank you, and do plan to post more.

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  59. You must surely mourn ... to depart form such ancient beauty. However I must rejoice - because you chose to share it. Thank you.

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    1. Each time we leave Venice we are overcome with a great feeling of sadness which makes every departure that much more difficult. We are, though, so fortunate to have it all relatively close to hand.

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  60. You two had a brilliant trip! I adore all the fantastic photography and the behind-the-scenes peek at empty (though just as stunning) streets! A extraordinary trip indeed! :)

    Hugs,

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    1. That so much of Venice remains overlooked, Kasia, is for us one of its greatest joys. To have so much wonderful architecture and superb works of art to oneself is, we feel, a huge and undeserved privilege.

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  61. My dream of many years will be fulfilled when I arrive in Venice in October. However, I'm hoping the tourists will have thinned out somewhat as school will be back in session. I want to be 'intrigued and beguiled' as you were years ago........and thankfully you seem to still find little alleys and corners where you must still feel that way.
    I will have three days to explore and take photographs - some will have to be of the 'tourist spots' naturally, but my thrust will be towards those lesser known small but beautiful areas. After the assault on my senses (sans 10 euro coffees!), I will hop on a ship which will take me to Croatia, the Greek Islands, and Turkey..............and any tips for seeing those countries as they were in the wonder days will be appreciated, thanks.

    Beautifully worded post and your images are really lovely, each one speaking to me as only Venezia can I'm sure.
    Thank you -
    Mary

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    1. Oh, Mary, how simply wonderful that you will be in Venice in October and we are certain that you will both love, and appreciate, it all. Arm yourself with a good map, for it is easy to be lost, decide what you would really like to see in advance, and strike out. So many of the churches, gems in themselves, contain the most amazing works of art but there is, as you will surely know already, something to appeal to the eye on every street corner. And in three days you will most certainly begin to have a very real 'feel' for the city. Do not spend time on a trip to Murano [glass] or Burano [lace] as both are dreadfully touristy although the Cathedral on Torcello was, forty years ago, simply out of this world.

      As for the rest of your trip, beyond our wildest dreams, as we have yet to visit the Croatian coastline, the Greek Isles or Turkey. Do you have room in your suitcase?!!

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  62. I wondered where you were. Glad to see you were absorbing the divine details of every nook and cranny. I am wistful thinking about the darkening Tiepolo sky, and that you missed the Titian. Sigh. All said...YOU obviously look...and SEE. By the way, R & T send their love...we just had dinner with them (slightly belated celebration for R's birthday). xo

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    1. Do, please, Elizabeth give R and T our very best love. We did so enjoy meeting with them and very much hope that one day our paths may again cross.

      Yes, how aptly you put it, we were absorbing all of the 'divine details' which Venice has to offer and even now hope that we may return before the Titian exhibition closes. We are, of course, currently in love with all things Tiepolo!!

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  63. Hello Jane & Lance,
    Although we have been to many of the cities of Europe, Venice remains on our list of visits to come. You have described it in such a wonderful way, both in words and in pictures. I cannot agree more about the way in which visitors to these amazing places only treat them like one more item on their holiday 'buffet', to be piled on a plate with other cities and places of interest, and devoured with little true interest. To really 'feel' a city, one must spend time in it, explore, sit and watch, and talk to the residents. A lovely post, thank you.

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    1. We are certain, Gary, that you and Amanda would simply love Venice in all of its many mysterious and magical forms. And we know that you would ignore the 'buffet', as you so accurately describe it, in favour of the untried and untested. What is more, we believe that it has as much to offer, except for sunshine, in winter, your quiet period we imagine, as in the summer months. So, think on it!!

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  64. The last time I was in Venice I was in my early 20s, so very long ago, a city of such extreme beauty it would be hard to imagine it. Next time I would like you as my guide which would ensure I wouldn't miss a thing.

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    1. This is more than generous of you, Susan. We go back over forty years to our first time in Venice and, in many ways, it has changed very little in all of those years. Perhaps, in some ways, more beautiful.

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  65. What a beautiful insight of Venice, so very unique like you yourselves are!

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    1. That is such a kind thing to say. But as far as Venice is concerned, it truly is, as you say, unique and very, very beautiful.

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  66. My dearest Hattatts,
    I have never visited Venice ( never been anywhere in Italy actually ) but through your post I felt again the urge to do it ( hopefully sooner than later! ) I agree with Jen. One must travell the oppisite way from the crowds... And I agree with you saying about those who look but not see. This realization makes one rather sad indeed.

    What a marvelous trip you have had!

    lots of love from an autumny Norway

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    1. Dear Demie, we should be so thrilled to think that in some small way we may have set your mind to thoughts of Italy and, in particular, to Venice. To someone as creative as we know you to be, you would find all aspects of the city enormously appealing.

      And we send you love fro a still warm and sunny Hungary!

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  67. Great photos, esp of the smaller canals. The trouble with Venice is that the locations of great treasures are sometimes obscure. But then that can be a joy as well - the visitor goes around a corner and accidentally runs into something wonderful.

    Last time the beloved and I were in Venice, we spent most of our eight days inside the town. And still didn't see everything.

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    1. It is the element of surprise which Venice offers at every turn which makes it, at least for us, such a very appealing place. That and the countless wonderful art works which we so much enjoy.

      Certainly one needs a great deal of time to see it all - we doubt that we ever will.

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  68. I love looking at your photos,
    the architecture are absolutely amazing.
    Venice is such a beautiful city.

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    1. We are so pleased that you have enjoyed the photographs, Ann, taken with, we do assure you, the most basic of cameras.

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  69. The photo of the Side Canal brings back memories of one of the very first paintings well prints i ever bought when i was about 20 years old. It looks excatly like that photo from the blue sky to the colours of the buildings and the boats. My mother has the picture now as she adores Venice. It looks like a wonderful trip those buildings are stunning and so steeped in history it must make you feel very humble wondering around and inside them. dee

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    1. How wonderful, Dee, that one of the photographs should bring back memories of one of the first pictures that you ever bought and which your mother continues to enjoy.

      We do agree with you that there is something very humbling in the presence of so much great beauty.

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  70. Hello my dear friends,

    What an amazing post, on so many levels. Recently, I saw a clip on the news about the arrival of the giant, massive cruise ships in the lagoon of Venice and how protestors shout in vain. It made me so sad. I have seen such attitudes all over the world unfortunately. Little vampires just sucking out the marrow and leaving the rests behind. Actually, I see it nearly everyday here in Arles--there is a very certain path that the umbrella carriers or flag wavers follow. Most of the time the headset wearers look bored with the commentary and are more interested in taking photos of Ben (true, he is a handsome dog) than the Roman Arenas.

    It is still my dream to get to Venice and your beautiful photos and evocative writing have only solidified that need.

    Gros bisous from Arles,
    Heather

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    1. The cruise liners are truly awful, dearest Heather. They resemble high rise blocks of flats and it is very noticeable how so many of the 'cruisers' stay on board and never even get off to explore Venice for themselves.

      We can imagine the bored tourists tramping the streets of Arles, as they must in every city the length and breadth of France in August,but, it must, as in Venice be so easy to dodge them all unless one is heading for the Roman Arena!!!

      It is rather amusing to think that Ben must by now be gracing several hundred computer hard disks and being gazed on with wonder as the tourists 'back home' try to work out where they saw him!!!

      Happy Thursday to you!

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  71. Please, write a book about Venice and have everything here that is in this post. Plead with people to put down the horrid things in their ears and listen to the city and see it through their own eyes.
    Someone else might have told you this in your 200 or so comments above, but I really think that you should! Your gentle words of appreciation of beauty are just too good!
    Kay

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    1. Dear Kay, thank you so very much for these most generous words of praise. In a world that has never been more bombarded with visual images, we fear that it is Canute-like to 'bid the waves' back. And yet, for all the pictorial images, never was there more of a case for teaching visual awareness, looking behind the immediate to the less obvious we feel.

      And as for books....we fear the worst for them!!

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  72. Dear Jane and Lance!
    I enjoyed this post very much as i know Venice pretty well. I fell in love with it and for a few years kept going back every summer. Unfortunately, these days it si always full of tourists that seem to be more interested in their phones than the beauty around them.
    I once got up at 5am and walked the streets just to see them with nopeople around. It was a magical morning.

    Red

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    1. Oh, dearest Red, what a perfect time to see the city. Early morning is such a wonderful moment to catch the glorious light that is so unmistakeably and so beguilingly Venice.

      The tourist numbers are alarming but, we feel, that only makes us more determined to be more adventurous and explore the many, many back streets which have a magic of their own and are for the most part deserted.

      Hoping that your new term goes well!

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  73. Honestly, it is the secret paths away from the crush that are the most compelling. Thanks so much much for following your nose and discovering them for us. I do love ghost buildings with bits that remain of the old...magical.

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    1. Yes, we think so too, Deana.Although many of the old buildings in their crumbling states have a definite romance to them, one worries that, for some of them, time may be running out to save them from complete extinction.

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  74. From the first moment I stepped off the train and saw Venice, I cried, not believing that this story-book city was unveiled before me. I was there less than a week and knew that I would be back, not for the tourist path but for the secret places away from the crowds. I do not want to hear that there are cruise ships as it makes me feel ill.

    From my many, many trips to Paris I know now that one cannot truly "see" a city unless one can explore, visit with locals, and take time to observe. I have bought Venetian (Murano) glass for lampworking area for 20 years and the history, art, and literature had already captivated me. To breathe it in first-hand just made my heart sing.

    Venice showed me but a glimpse but I am far from finished with her. I have thought of you two in Venice knowing that you would see her with insightful eyes and I treasure your report(s) written and shown so beautifully.

    Bises,
    Genie

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    1. Oh, Genie, of course to arrive by train, to walk through the booking hall of the railway station and then to happen, as of course one does, on the Grand Canal has to be one of the most thrilling of all experiences. No-one should ever arrive for the first time in Venice any other way. And if, as can happen , the train crosses the causeway at dawn, when the waters of the lagoon are a soft, luminous grey-pink, then that is richness indeed!

      The sight of the cruise ships is a ghastly one, not only for their presence but for the way they are so out of scale with their surroundings. They dwarf absolutely everything and are as unsightly as the very worst block of high rise flats. Too too dreadful!

      As you are with Paris, and we hope ourselves a little with Budapest, it does take years really to know a city and, like you, we have by no means, after more than forty years in our case, finished with her yet.

      And the kindness and generosity of your comment is so much appreciated.

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    2. I may select a less busy month to see Venice again. I think that a cold and rainy Venice would make for moody photographs and a chance to see a side of the city not meant for tourists.

      Habsburg yellow is a color I should see first-hand. It is on my short-list. (wink)

      Wishing you both a lovely weekend!

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    3. Yes, Venice out of season has a magic all of its own which, with your observant eye, we think you would capture masterfully.

      Now Habsburg yellow you should, and we hope will, see first hand. And it would give us enormous pleasure to show it to you. Just let us know when you can come! And, we mean it!!

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  75. wow...gorgeous...i love Venice, I went there for the first.....and so far only....time with my cousin on a whim and the first £1 flights from Ryan Air......we were both Venice virgins and I could not believe it's beautyand that I'd left it so long!!

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    1. It is indeed the most magical of cities and one which will, we believe, forever have one yearning to return. We are so fortunate that Venice is, relatively speaking, almost a near neighbour of Budapest and that the bus whisks us there within a few hours.

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  76. Ah, I love Venice, and have been there a couple times. The AC sailing trials in spring will be held there too, great post!

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    1. We are delighted that you love Venice too. And, what a sight it must be all those marvellous sailing ships in the Lagoon!

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  77. Quite green with envy as have not been to Venice for about 15 years, though Florence last year.
    Yes, it is quite easy to get away from i turisiti.
    Loved looking at its beauties through your eyes.
    Yes, do post again about your visit.

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    1. In 15 years you will certainly notice many many differences but, the old Venice is still there if one searches for it.

      Thank you so much for your kind comment. With your artist's eye, we take your words as very great compliments indeed.

      We have some ideas for future posts!

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  78. Quel bello viaggio Jane and Lance. I can almost taste Italy on the tip of my tongue. I visited Firenze and it took my breath away...the architecture is so unique...I've missed you I am happy you've had such astonishing experiences :).

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    1. At the point when we are about to close down the computer for the night, what a wonderful comment to receive, Petronela. You are, as always, so very gracious and kind and we are most touched.

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  79. Very good pictures, I also visit a lot of churches all over the world.

    Greetings,
    Filip

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    1. Thank you so much, Filip. Visiting churches wherever we are is for us, like you, a great interest. Happy weekend!

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  80. My dear Jane and Lance,

    Welcome back! Your poetic reflections on the beauty of Venice captured and delighted my heart. I felt safe and enlightened as if you have taken us, the readers, by our hands to the fall and rise of beautiful palaces and into the soul of the city with your perceptive and sensitive commentary. I must agree with your acute observation "they look but they do not see"...this is something I found fascinating because, take a similar example, a lot of tourists come to look at the paintings at the National Galleries but they don't seem to stand in front of the painting and look at the painting because they are far too busy clicking their camera. Have you ever seen such tourists? I'm glad that you selected all the pictures with no tourist so that we all feel as if we have the whole city to ourselves.

    Muriel, my old art history professor who is now retired, went to Florence alone with her old Baedeker Guidebook. Oh my dears, I could have given her a big hug there because she got lost and she was taken around the place by an unscrupulous taxi driver and charged her a fortune for her taxi fare!!

    Have a wonderful weekend. Thank you so much for this beautiful post.

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    1. What you say here about people looking, or failing to look, at art works in National Galleries rings very true with us as well. From our days as English guides at The Museum of Contemporary Art here in Budapest, we can clearly recall so many visitors passing through gallery after gallery as if in a dream, never for one moment pausing to look at an exhibit for more than a second or two. All so very depressing.

      We loved the tale of Muriel in Florence which could so well have come out of any of the novels which we and you so much enjoy.

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  81. Dear Jane and Lance,
    Thank you for this wonderful post and for sharing with us your stunning photographs.
    I haven't visited Venice yet - one day, one day!
    Hope you both have a lovely week,
    Lizx

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    1. We are so delighted that you have enjoyed this post, Liz, and do hope that one day you will be able to experience all the wonders and treasures of Venice for yourself.

      Kellemes hétvégét!

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  82. How could I be so late for your beautiful Venice post Jane and Lance ? One of my most favourite cities in the world. When we were there we must have walked the length and breadth of it to Venices most remotest corners, eating in the far flung restaurants where the locals eat. In one such restaurant in the Arsenal district, the husband and wife owners would suddenly burst into operatic song and then, a friend walked in with a guitar slung over his back and we all sang Beatles and other English songs. Your images are wonderful and bring back many memories for me. We love the major attractions that Venice has to offer but, it's the back streets and the 'off the beaten track' that offer so much too. XXXX

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    1. Jackie, you are not at all 'late' and how kind of you to bother at all!!

      We are so pleased that you too have an on-going love affair with Venice and you are so right, the only way really to know the city is to spend time exploring it on foot. Your experience in the restaurant in the Arsenal district, well off the tourist trail, sounds to have been absolutely magical and an occasion which truly does become a 'once off'.

      Of course the major attractions are amazing, else they would not be so, but, as you say, it is the back streets and side canals which reveal the real Venice and we should, we feel, all be grateful that they remain relatively unnoticed.

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  83. I have been fortunate enough to have been there twice. First time on a quiet Feb. morning. Another time, in early Fall after a cruise. Then it was so packed with tourists it was almost frightening. I so preferred the first visit.

    If I get to go again...I will seek out the beautiful areas you have so superbly photographed.

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    1. A quiet February morning. We can hardy think of a better time in which to observe Venice in all of her mystery and beauty. Absolutely perfect. Alas, we too find the huge numbers of tourists there, as anywhere, particularly alarming and to be avoided if at all possible.

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  84. Dear Jane and Lance, there couldn't be a more beautiful post to highlight the enchantment called Venice. I, personally, have always found the unseen, untouched corners of a place more fascinating than the star touristy must-dos.
    We hope to visit this wonderland someday, and when we do, your post would be our 'rehnuma' (Urdu for 'guide') for the lanes and by-lanes of Venice.

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    1. This is so very, very kind of you, Suman, and totally undeserved. But like you, we too feel the real essence of a place is to be found in those 'unseen, untouched corners' which remain, thankfully, far from the madding crowd.

      And how wonderful it would be if, some day, you are able to visit Venice as we too cherish a hope of travelling to, and in, your own most exotic, fascinating and very beautiful country which we know to be full of the most wonderful treasures.

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  85. I’ve never been to Venice but now I’ve enjoyed Venice through the eyes of friends, Jane and Lance. These wonderful photos are different from the ones I often see in the guide book, which I like and think more precious. The narrowest street is really narrow! That’s a shame that the sea level getting higher and higher at Venice.

    Yoko

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    1. The future of Venice is a constant source of worry, Yoko, with, as you say, rising sea levels, a dwindling resident population and a growing number of tourists who do, inevitably, create problems for the infrastructure.

      But it remain one of the world's most beautiful cities, or so we think.

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  86. It has been such a pleasure to slowly look at this post and read through the comments.

    Once upon a time in early spring, I spent about a week in Venice, arriving and leaving by train. I remember initially being quite surprised at the scale of Venice, having supposed that it was much larger, physically.

    Within a day, I realized that it was its intimate scale that allowed me to walk and look and marvel, over and over again. The spell was cast!

    Some New York friends visit Venice just about every year, and tell me of the changes that you all mention. Those huge ships! Those day trippers! The departure of young Venetians who can no longer afford to live in their city. The trend of wealthy international buyers purchasing Venetian real estate as pied-a-terre spaces. On and on.

    And yet, my friends continue to be captivated by Venice, particularly loving it in winter.

    I am greatly looking forward to seeing your future posts featuring Venice's beautiful layers. I was very amused to think that one could arrive in Venice from Budapest via bus. Why would this surprise me? I resolve to do more of my own traveling! xo

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    1. It is indeed, as you so rightly observe, Frances, the small scale of Venice which comes as such a surprise and, strangely, something upon which we remarked during our stay last week. But it is only by walking the streets, as you have so obviously done, that the intimacy is fully realised. And yes, it is a city which most certainly does cast a 'spell'.

      The preponderance of cruise ships, unloading their cargoes of day trippers, is something we find infinitely depressing, and worrying. Your New York friends are so right about this, as they are about the young Venetians no longer able to afford to stay, and find work, in their own city. It is all so very sad. But how wonderful that they continue to visit, and in winter time too, when the whole city casts a particular magic not seen in high season.

      How very kind of you to say that you are looking forward to the other posts we are planning on Venice. That is so much appreciated. And yes, the bus between Budapest and Venice works wonderfully well and is very comfortable and not too long - ten hours compared with the twenty-seven when we travel back to London by bus!!

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  87. Hello Jane and Lance ~ I've been looking forward to your post from Venice more than you can imagine. Your phrase "beauty unseen" describes this ineffable city perfectly. And "beauty unseen" it will always be if you are absorbed with a cell phone (all of them should be tossed in the grand canal upon arriving.) The treasures inside the weathered exteriors take one's breath away. Surely you were reluctant to leave, but welcome back!

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    1. This is so very kind of you, Carol. We did, in fact, have the most wonderful time and which, for the most part, was unimpeded by the usual crowds. We love your idea, which we should fully support, that all mobile telephones should be cast into the Grand Canal. Could this be followed up with all those personal stereos?!!

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  88. A truly beautiful post, Jane and Lance, befitting this most beautiful of cities. I have been to Venice twice, each time sadly only as a day tripper, but thankfully not herded around in a group. We so enjoyed getting away from the tourist must-sees and wandering the side-streets which you portray so well in both word and image. Thank you for taking me back there, if only for a little while.

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    1. And here you do yourself a complete disservice, Perpetua. For you could in no way, under any circumstances, at any time be described as a day tripper. You are, we suspect, one of the most discerning travellers one is likely ever to meet - and this is said with the upmost sincerity.

      Venice is the most wonderful of cities and each time we are overcome not only by its inherent beauty but even more so by what is contained within its churches and palaces.

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    2. You are too kind, Jane and Lance, and I'm blushing here. Sadly, in the strictest sense of the term, I was indeed a day tripper as I have yet to spend a single night in Venice, though I haven't given up hope of doing so in the future.

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    3. That there is so much to see and experience in Venice demands a great deal of time. One can never hope to have enough. But we do so hope that there will be some future occasion when you will have the opportunity of exploring the city with time on your side.

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  89. Venice is one my favorite cities in the world & you capture it so well with the written word. The last time I was there (in April 2003) I felt like the tourists had long ago taken over, and yet that hidden mystery of Venice - that 'beauty unseen' really does inspire your imagination & begs you to return!

    Venice is just one of those cities that makes you marvel at Humankind's achievements & our ability to make beauty. Thanks for sharing.

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    1. Sadly, tourists have well and truly smothered Venice but, as you say, the hidden beauty entrances and captivates so that one is seduced to keep on coming back for more.

      How right you are that Venice is a city of marvellous artistic achievement. It does indeed make one feel truly humble when in the presence of such great masterpieces.

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  90. Good morning Jane and Lance,

    You write so beautifully about Venice that I almost feel I was there with you.

    In the past I have described the experience of reading blogs as being like 'wikipedia, but with soul'. This is exactly how I feel about your writings.

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    1. We are so very touched by the generosity of your comment, Gaynor. What of course is so wonderful about the Blogosphere is that it takes one to so many parts of the globe.

      And through 'La Petite Presse' we are coming to know a small corner of France!!

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  91. Dear Jane and Lance...what a beautiful love letter to a most magical, otherworldly city.
    It is a blessing that you do, in fact, "see" it.
    I had the chance to glimpse Venice but for a mere 10 minutes...while waiting for a train change.
    It was a transcendent 10 minutes...6 a.m....not a soul in sight...only the Venetian morning mist...magical indeed.
    I do hope to go back one day...and to inhale and experience the city with utmost reverence.
    A splendid weekend to you both,
    - Irina

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    1. Oh, Irina, we are so pleased that you have had, and of course appreciated, that magical moment of the sun rising over the lagoon and a misty, mysterious Venice rising above those pearly waters. We do so hope that you will be able to return. But until then, treasure that memory, as we know that you will.

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  92. Never been to Venice - bonkers really because I have stayed near there many times. Your pictures have jolted my conscience; I really must go and see it for myself.

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    1. Now, Mark, we really do urge you to go. So much beauty and so much to see, and very different from some of your normal stamping grounds!

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  93. Dear Jane and Lance, Yes, there are too many tourists visiting Venice, Yet, I wish for everyone to have this beautiful experience. Some will see and some will see less. But each vistor will leave knowing that they must go back. Gina

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    1. This, of course, Gina, is the great dilemma which all who travel have, for in so doing each one of us is in danger of destroying in some small part the very thing which we have come to admire. We rather wished that we shared your very positive view of visitors.

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  94. Your thoughts about tourists in these beautiful cities is just like ours. My husband always says another day another city another tick on the list that entitles them to say been there done that.

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