Monday 21 May 2012

From Primates to Platforms

We are creatures of habit. Breakfast is always taken in the Morning Room, Afternoon Tea is served at 4pm, we have patronised the same butcher for seven years and every Sunday, after church, we can be found in our favourite cukrászda indulging in coffee and cake. And, on good weather Fridays, more often than not, we travel, picnic in hand, to Ezstergom.

the so called 'Cat Stairs' which lead up to the Basilica in Esztergom, a town on the Danube

For, Friday is market day in this attractive town, nestling on the banks of the Danube, connected by the Mária Valéria bridge to Slovakia and dominated by the magnificent Basilica which defines Esztergom as the centre of the Roman Catholic Church in Hungary. The market traders bring a welcome touch of colour and a reminder of everyday life in this town which is besieged in summer by tourists invading by tour buses and river cruisers.



the Mária Valéria bridge which spans the Danube linking Hungary with Slovakia

the Basilica dominates the town from its hilltop situation commanding wonderful views 


On our most recent visit we did not make our usual uphill pilgrimage to the Cathedral, concentrating instead on the glorious Baroque and Classicist architecture to be found amidst the cobbled streets of the centre of town.


 a typical street scene in Esztergom where houses hug the hillside above the Danube 


Everywhere one turns, mellow stuccoed walls in pastel shades speak of an elegant past, intricately forged ironwork celebrates the craftsmanship of masters of that trade and shoals of students scurrying from one school building to another proclaim Esztergom to be a seat of C21 learning as well as a Royal Seat for two centuries, the seat of the Constitutional Court of Hungary, and a seat of religious devotion for 1000 years.


a monk hurries about his business passing a fine Baroque building in the centre of the town

a glimpse through an open doorway of an apartment building reveals a distant shady court

suited students, on their final day at school, make their ways to attend a last assembly


Our picnic was taken in the shade of a magnificent Plane tree, one of many which form a splendid avenue along a side canal of the mighty Danube beyond. These glorious, ancient trees stretch their sinewy limbs to create a dappled canopy over an inviting promenade, thoughtfully punctuated by elegant iron fronted seats which tempt one to rest, to linger, even to put the world to rights.


an ideal picnic spot in the canopy of an avenue of Plane trees alongside a Danube canal


We sipped iced lemonades on the terrace of a stylish café, we browsed amongst the nooks and crannies of our favourite second hand shop and we walked, wandered, strolled and sauntered through the labyrinths of small streets, peering into any open doorways or courtyards which afforded a closer look.


delicious iced lemonades, an ideal drink for a hot day in May, taken on the terrace of a café

the exterior and entrance of our favourite 'Használt cikk', second hand shop, in Esztergom

one of very many fine buildings of different architectural styles to be found in Esztergom


And, all too soon, the lipstick red metal bullet, which was our train, sped us back to Nyugati Pályaudvar [Western Railway Station] in Budapest. Here an altogether different cathedral awaited. Made of iron and glass, designed by Eiffel of Parisian tower fame, Nyugati Pályaudvar is a monument to a golden age of steam transport.


departure board at Esztergom station indicating the 17.10 train to Budapest from platform 4 

the Esztergom - Budapest train, a very new introduction to the line, and proving very popular 

a corner of Nyugati Pályaudvar designed by Eiffel and largely built of steel and glass


A Basilica to the Divine, a Cathedral to human achievement, all in the space of a single day!

232 comments:

  1. May I have the honor of being your first comment! Esztergom look so wonderfully charming, it's a trip back to slower times, isn't it, and to all those lost graces which still survive in Central Europe. I have such a long list already of things we'd like to do with you on our next trip.

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    1. How wonderful that you are our first commentator and, thank you too, for your marvellous tip of the enlarged photographs. A technique which we have employed mercilessly in this post!!

      We too are already putting together possible ideas for your next visit. Yes, there are so many things to see and do but, for us, the greatest pleasure is to enjoy your company.

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  2. What a fantastic tour of your neighbouring countryside. Does the sun always shine there? It all looks so beautiful.
    Di
    X

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    1. We only venture out on good weather days, Dianne!! But, having said that, compared with the UK, the weather here in Hungary has been absolutely wonderful.

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  3. How wonderful to live in such a beautiful, historic part of the world, Jane and Lance....and, your daily rituals are ones that we should all indulge in. A little promenading, enjoying the architecture, and then to sit in the sunshine enjoying a glass of iced lemonade is my idea of heaven.
    Keep enjoying all of your delightful daily habits and keep on showing them to us won't you ?
    .....and, many thanks for your lovely comment today. XXXX

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    1. We are rather afraid to elucidate, lest we are seen to be obsessive, on even the majority of our daily rituals as they are so extensive!!!

      The chilled lemonade was seriously good. So good that we returned for a second later in the afternoon!!!

      We were absolutely thrilled for you regarding your son's most impressive achievements. Intelligence and good looks, he has clearly inherited the genes!!

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  4. Creatures of habit, huh? Would you agree that our response not only to the certainties of life such as day, night, season, weather, work, on, but also to the uncertainties such as emotion, poverty, acts of God, the unpredictable acts of others, is often best done by creating habits? But do you think that the reassurance supplied by habit is a chimera often shattered by habit's fragility? How wonderfully serene your habit of only going out in the sunshine makes Hungary appear. How easily illusion is created. I've had nothing to eat or drink this morning. I think my world view would be helped by the optimism that comes with food. How beautiful your photographs are. Love, Alec xx

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    1. Yes, we would be of the view that habits or routines are reassuring and can give confidence in what seem to be the ever changing and uncertain times in which we live. And, indeed, in times of crisis, such habits may not be sufficiently strong to address all the demands made of one but, may go some way in doing so and, in the process of acquiring habits, one may have enlisted the support or help of others to meet these challenges. This, certainly, is what we have found to be the case when faced with what we, at the time, felt to be insurmountable difficulties and it was of great comfort to know that we were not alone.

      A hearty breakfast is surely bound to make the day seem brighter,and, when it finally stops raining in England,that will help too!!!!

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  5. Such a quiet, poetic little town, with so many beautiful old buildings. And my beloved Danube...
    That explains your prolonged pause between posts. But, Jane and Lance you do realize you are very much missed, don't you? So please consider this for the future :).
    I gotta have a sip of that lemonade..

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    1. How sweet of you, Petronela, to write that we are missed. Our pauses between posts are essential, we find, in order to keep up with our own posts and those of others which we also love to visit.

      You describe Esztergom beautifully. It is a favourite port of call for us and is so easily reached from Budapest. And, coupled with good weather and home made lemonade it is, as you remark, perfect!

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  6. Dear Jane and Lance - first of all I do like the fact that your photos are larger, it is possible to see so much more detail. I know you can click on them, but sometimes it doesn't work very satisfactorily.
    What could be better than sitting under that shady arbour of Plane trees for your picnic. Isn't nature just wonderful that the trees can grow like that as if nodding to the Danube?
    The Departure Board is amazing, everywhere else has gone digital. It must surely be a collector's piece. Railway enthusiasts here would go crazy for it.
    Lovely architecture and ambience, enjoyed this sunny meandering stroll with you.

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    1. We are so pleased that you have enjoyed the photographs, Rosemary. They are larger thanks to a professional tip from our friend, Paul Gervais de Bedée, whose blog and whose extremely wonderful pictures, we know that you read. We have a very basic camera but, in this way, as you say,much more detail can be seen and the pictures can be enlarged without losing definition.

      We wanted to create the mood of our leisurely stroll through Esztergom in this post, and we are delighted that you have commented on this.

      The Esztergom departure board is, we agree, a wonderful vintage piece. We really do wish to steal it....perhaps we shall one day!!!

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  7. That was a marvellous tour; I must confess I was ready for my iced lemonade and a little rest in the shade. The architecture on offer is very varied, but the two things which fascinated me the most were the detailing on the door handle, and plate (not sure of the terminology) and that wonderful train departure board. Afternoon Tea at 4pm - a delightful ritual - one of life's little pleasures.

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    1. The ironwork everywhere throughout the town, as in Budapest, is extremely fine. It is often extremely intricate work with an enormous sense of movement and creative spirit. We are so pleased that you noticed these wonderful details too.

      Afternoon Tea at 4pm is such a pleasing routine, although we have to confess to bringing tea from England. The varieties that we have found in Budapest to date just do not compare favourably.

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  8. Your habits are those of a world which has almost disappeared for many people, a look-back to sweeter, calmer times, when contemplation of a building here, a shady nook there, a restful and refreshing break and a slow sifting through treasures in a favourite shop were all imaginable and reachable goals. I have said it before, I'll say it again, this olde Europe you inhabit is a place now known only from books and the tales of a few fortunate people like yourselves.

    I would love to join such a pleasurable excursion; the fact that a train took you to and from your day's destination makes the whole exercise even more enviable. All that's missing is the sooty steam emanating from the train's engine. Oh, the nostalgia it produces in me!

    May your life continue along these same tracks for many years.

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    1. We do regard ourselves as being extremely fortunate in having the time and the resources to explore a whole country which has so much of interest to offer. Esztergom is, as you say, redolent with the atmosphere of an 'Ancien Régime' and life really does go on at an altogether more leisurely and elegant pace.

      The Hungarian railways, at the moment at least, do connect even the smallest of villages throughout the country which makes travel so much easier and more pleasurable. In addition, trains are, at the moment at least, FREE for all EU citizens over the age of 65!!!!

      As it happens, on arrival back in Budapest, the station was alive to the sound of a band playing and the 'Orient Express' train was standing on the platform, poised for a 'nostalgia' journey from Budapest to Godollo that evening. So, the scene was complete...but without the steam!!!!

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  9. Oh that cat walk drew me right away, the row of plane trees and was that a trace of mint in the lemonade? Love the glimpse through the open gate, and what a gate it was, very inspring to me. Does the rain rush down those streets to the Danube?

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    1. We are delighted to think that you have enjoyed spotting all these little details in the photographs, Linda! There are almost 200 'cat steps' up from the town to the Basilica but we did not alight these on this particular occasions. Thankfully, there are rest places on the way up!

      We have never been to Esztergom in the rain!

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  10. What a beautiful place to wander. The railway station is very impressive. I always enjoy seeing little glimpses of private gardens and houses, I am obviously inherently nosey!

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    1. Budapest is definitely the place for you to visit if you enjoy peering into courtyards or barely opened doorways. There is so much hidden treasure to be discovered!

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  11. What happy lives you surely lead, promenading in such elegant, weathered places, bolstered by the familiarity of pleasing rituals. If the BBC were to be so wise as to send a cameraman round with you, you would give Jonathan Meades quite a run for his money.

    And now, I am peering at that lovely photos of your drawing room, wondering when we may have a close-up of the pink rug...?

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    1. Oh, to be accompanied by a BBC cameraman! Now that really does have an appeal, although talking into one of those furry rabbit things which they seem to have would, no doubt, make us giggle.

      On a closer inspection of our apartment, we are afraid that we must inform you that the pink rug is the only item of that particular colour to be found. Hence, to give it a 'blow-up' giant size photograph of its own would not really be representative. No, it will have to wait for your visit to us to be looked at at close quarters!!!

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  12. Thank you for the beautiful words and pictures. I feel like I'm there (and now truly want to be). I'm not a creature of many habits, but yours sound idyllic and I might like to try.

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    1. Just a short 'hop' and you can be here, Mitch! We are sure that you will find much of interest and we should be delighted to be your guides!!

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  13. Dear Jane and Lance
    A wonderful little city full of wonderful architectural buildings and great history. We went there in June 2001 and we were excited. From beautiful Budapest to Estergkom we went by bus. The trip was wonderful and we saw the Danube with lovely villages. Thank you for sharing with us your beautiful trip.
    Have a nice week
    Olympia

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    1. How wonderful that you remember so warmly your visit to Esztergom so many years ago. It is, as you say, an absolutely delightful town and one can sit and look at the mighty Danube completely losing all track of time.

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  14. The picture of the apartment with garden courtyard beyond......sheer bliss.
    Purchasing ticket immediately.
    I remember the lovely house you were looking at last year....
    How we long for new/old house adventures.
    Greetings from rainy New York......

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    1. On so very many trips, we usually end up toying with the idea of buying a house/apartment/country cottage/summer house/flat/beach hut there. We just cannot help ourselves, but we know that we should be hard pressed to leave Budapest which affords a life that we love and accessibility with its position in Central Europe. yes, buy a ticket immediately. We should love to show you around!

      Oh dear, a rainy day in New York. But, how we should love to be there one day....rain or shine!!

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  15. Can you guess which one is my favourite of the beautiful pictures you have posted here?

    There's little that beats having a picnic in delightful company on a sunny day in May, is there!

    Today, I'll have lunch at my Mum's (as has become my weekly habit over the past year), and perhaps we'll take it on the balcony in the sun, it certainly is nice enough out there today.

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    1. We are, as it happens, totally unsure about which of the photographs you might choose as a favourite. But the monk hurrying along backed by the Baroque building would probably be our choice of the best of the bunch.

      We are so pleased that your regular weekly lunch with your mother is blessed by good weather today. How nice to have a balcony upon which to chat and eat!

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    2. As it happened, we did not eat outside - the balcony is in an in-between state right now, the spring flowers have been removed and the summer flowers are not there yet, and it is all full of planting pots and bags of soil and so on.

      My favourite picture of the bunch is the glimpse through the doorway of the apartment building. It offers two things I love: glimpses into other people's lives, and doors & doorways.

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    3. That is such a pity about not eating outside, but how lovely it will be on your next visit when the new plantings are all in place!

      We can so readily see why you are attracted to the photograph of the open door and the view through to the courtyard beyond. We spend a lot of time pushing open doors in order to have a peek inside. It is, more often than not, extremely exciting to see what lies inside, since it regularly bears little resemblance to what is on the outside and does, as you say, give one a glimpse into the secret lives of others.

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  16. Routines certainly are wonderful when they encompass the many local features and specialties you describe. Your descriptions were so pleasant and vivid that I felt that I was accompanying you on your rounds (how do you say "Please hold the mint" in Hungarian?). I especially admired the Nyugati Pályaudvar train station, a textbook on how to incorporate elegance into a utilitarian building.

    Your article also reminded me of pleasant excursions that had become routine for me in the past, such as walking by the old houses in New Haven, or along a wooded road in suburban Boston.

    ---Road to Parnassus

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    1. Thank you, Jim, for your most kind and generous words. If only you had been there to accompany us, now that would have made the day perfect in every possible way. And, we would have ensured that your lemonade was not adorned with mint....we rather like it and, these particular drinks seemed to contain a whole fruit cocktail, a straw and a spoon!!!

      The architecture of Nyugati Pályaudvar is most interesting and, coupled with the disembodied voice announcing all manner of exotic destinations over the loudspeaker, always holds a certain romance for us.

      Your own regular walks in New Haven and Boston sound wonderful. May we read about them in a post one day?

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  17. It sounds like it was a big day out, but really just your normal Sunday? Great photos. The more you tell us about and show us Budapest, the more I am drawn to visit.

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    1. A regular Friday, indeed, Andrew! We are so pleased that you liked the photographs and are delighted to think that you might be becoming tempted to make the long flight one day.....just think of all those trams!!!!!

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  18. Good Morning Jane and Lance

    What a delightful day and you have captured so much in one day.
    My heart stopped beneath the canopy of Plane trees. Such elegance. Speaking of elegance one can always see glimpses of it in your posts. The architecture by Eiffel is truly spectacular. (I had not known that the Eiffel Tower was designed by an architect named Eiffel. We recently were saying how architects do not put their names on buildings and sometimes it is difficult to find this information)
    A brilliant day and regardless of how often you make the day trip it differs.
    Your photo of the students and the monk deserve a prize.

    Have a superb day

    Helen xx

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    1. Good Afternoon, dearest Helen!

      Yes, the Plane trees are absolutely magnificent and the avenue of them stretching along the waterfront is reason enough by itself, in our view, to visit Esztergom.

      We really have not managed to capture the soaring iron rafters and wall of glass that makes the hand of Eiffel so apparent at Nyugati Pályaudvar. It is all most impressive when seen close at hand.

      Both the students and the monk were passing by so quickly that we were not at all sure that we could capture them in time. We just 'clicked' and hoped for the best! Thank you for your kind compliment!

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  19. So lovely! I need to go there!

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    1. It is indeed beautiful, Sonia, and we do so hope that you may have the opportunity to visit one day.

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  20. Dear Jane and Lance,

    It sounds like a truly charming town. Somehow, reading this post, I feel like I've read the beginning of an Elizabeth Goudge novel and the town is going to be one of the characters in a story about monks, students, architects and picnickers with a vague chorus, in the background, of tourists.

    I was thinking that the boys and I might have a picnic or two, this summer, but the two of you make the fun (picnic or not) a weekly ritual. Now, I think that I need to rethink how we're doing things, here. We're still a bit in winter-hibernation mode. ;) These simple adventures in life are so extremely pleasant! Growing up in California, we were out and about all the time. (A lot of that is thanks to my mom.) Now, I have months when I only come down off the hill, perhaps, two times. But, I think that living up here is an adventure, too. Wherever we are, there's so much to explore - so many simple things to appreciate, isn't there? Now, that we're in the final stretch to the end of school - I am preparing myself, as fearless leader of my family, to live the adventure - there's fun to be had! ;)

    Oh, and speaking of.... train stations and the trains, themselves, are quite the adventure, around here! Very fun!


    Love to you both,

    Katy xxoo

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    1. Dearest Katy, we too tend to think of ourselves, at times, acting out the scenes in a novel rather than living the everyday life. Hungary is rather like that. So many surreal experiences and intriguing characters that seem to be part of a dream but, there one is, wide awake and experiencing them!!

      We absolutely love picnics and, just between ourselves, have something special in mind for when a mutual friend [known to you and to us in the virtual world]comes to visit!!!

      One day we do so hope that you may, as 'fearless leader of the family' lead the way here as part of a Grand European Tour. Should this happen, adventure would hardly describe what would ensue in Budapest!!!!

      And, perhaps, we may too, one day, find ourselves on a Great Train Journey around America and could climb the hill and seek you out!!!

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  21. Routines such as yours bring a sense of calm to one's life. But a day in a new town can inspire me to take on any new challenge. What a lovely spot. And your lemonade looks so refreshing.

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    1. We have to admit to being rather fond of routines and they do, we agree, bring a sense of calm and order to daily life. One must, however, guard eternally against getting into a rut!

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  22. Thank you for another wonderful tour.

    I especially like the sign and doorway to the Használt Cikk decorated with the antique iron and vases.

    Those lemonades certainly look refreshing!

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    1. Beautiful shop signs, often incorporating interesting wrought iron designs, have been a tradition throughout Hungary for decades and we are always on the look out for them. We are so pleased that you spotted and like the one outside our favourite second hand shop. It is charming!

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  23. I'm so pleased to read about train platforms instead of platform shoes! And I have often though that Victorian train stations here in the NE of England are much like cathedrals. You have great Friday habits!

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    1. The mere mention of platrform shoes transports us back to the 1970s. Can it really be forty years ago when one was teetering around in white boots pretending to be an ABBA look alike?

      We are great fans of industrial architecture and train stations hold a particular fascination for us. We agree with you that those magnificent Victorian edifices in the North of England are magnificent monuments to the age of steam!

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  24. Dear Jane and Lance:

    I've had a lovely vicarious visit to Estztergom with you, so thanks! I could see from several of your photos that the ironwork there is superlative. It's also a pleasure to see students dressed up — something that's completely gone the way here!

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    1. We are delighted that you enjoyed the tour. Perhaps it may be for real one day?

      The students, we think, were returning from their 'Ballagás' celebration which occurs in schools and other educational establishments at this time of year to mark the 'graduation' of the students and the completion of their year of studies.Flowers are often presented on these occasions to the teaching staff. Otherwise, school uniform as such is not as common in Hungary as it is in England.

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  25. Oh my goodness. You two. So sneaky. Quietly making us all dream along with you. Showing us how to live the good life, where true luxury is a picnic under sunny skies near a rolling river. And appreciating all that you take in. You had mentioned to me before this spot and it means so much to me to be able to imagine you both there now. Hopefully, one of these days I will be there with you! Until then I will continue to live vicariously through your wonderful and inspiring lives.
    With much love from Arles,
    Heather

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    1. Dearest Heather, it really is a wish of ours that you will indeed join us in Budapest one day. The weather on this particular day was so lovely that it was sheer delight to spend time taking life at a leisurely pace and to watch the world and the Danube flow by.

      It is also great fun at Esztergom to go over the bridge, passport in hand, and enter another country, Slovakia, where the Euro not the Forint is the currency of the day!!!

      Hoping that you are having a sunny start to your week!

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  26. Much to say, but I'm being coaxed out into the green of this impossibly-lovely morning. I think now would be the time I might use "importuned," for the soccer ball awaits.

    Thinking of that lemonade.

    rachel

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    1. Do not delay.....seize the day......capture the moment......but, soccer, well, we should be found firmly on the sidelines!!!

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  27. What a wonderful post! I must say I think that my favorite part of your day would be sitting near the Danube...however those Plane trees would beckon me to sit a long while under them as well.

    What a beautiful day, I am so glad that you all know how to enjoy yourselves and thank you so much for the beautiful photographs to enjoy here across the pond!

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    1. The day, Joy, was particularly hot and so the shade of the Plane trees was particularly welcome. But, it was fun to sit by the Danube and watch the antics of people messing about in boats as well as looking at the hoards of tourists aboard massive river cruisers, all poised with their cameras as they floated past!

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  28. What a great tour from a beautiful city...thanks for sharing with us...have a nice i hope sunny week...love Ria....xxx..

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    1. Thank you for your kind comment, Ria. As we write, the windows are wide open and sun is streaming through. But, rain is forecast for tomorrow!!!

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  29. Dear Jane and Lance,

    Like you, I have become a creature of habit and feel comfortable in a routine, although I sometimes get spurts of "breaking free" and throw caution to the wind, and have a cup of tea in another room.

    Ezstergom looks like such a lovely place to visit and picnic. What a nice way to end the week.

    I am loving that bullet train and wish that we had transportation like that around here.

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    1. Gosh, Arleen, taking tea in another room...are we brave enough we ask ourselves!!!!!

      Esztergom is a most attractive and intriguing town and, taking a one and a half hour train ride, it is easily accessible from Budapest yet sufficiently far to make the journey itself of interest.Add to this the fact that a return train ticket costs under £8 [$12]there is no wonder, we feel that we are there most weeks when the weather is fine!!

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  30. All you pictures make me want to travel even more... there is so much beauty outside my little part of the world. I love old cities that have so much culture to offer... Just beautiful :)

    Launna

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    1. Hungary is, indeed, Launna, a most interesting and culturally rich country. However, its treasures are often hidden and one does have to make strenuous efforts to seek them out!

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  31. I agree that there is much to be said for the power of routine to keep one together when things are not ideal....and also to make a framework for the good times, like your Friday trips to Estzergom.

    You've made somewhere that was just a name come alive in your words and pictures...

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    1. Over the last two years we have been very grateful for and strengthened by comforting routines and the loyal and regular support of friends and we feel certain that you speak from experience here too. It is, for us, so wonderful to be at long last back to the habits of 'everyday life' and these regular trips which are so much part of our lives here in Budapest.

      We do so appreciate your kind comment for you, in our eyes, are mistress of the virtual pen and can bring a whole novel of characters to life in your beautifully crafted posts!

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  32. Never having travelled to this area of the world, I find it so wonderfully 'foreign' and exotic - absolutely beautiful architecture and images you have captured. And to use the words of your other followers, I have so enjoyed this vicarious picnic with you. Absolutely gorgeous. Axxx

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    1. We still find much of what we see and experience in Hungary wonderfully 'foreign' and exotic', Annie. Indeed, we do feel entirely captivated by this beguilingly beautiful, if somewhat dishevelled country!

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  33. There's be few of us, Jane and Lance, who'd know anything of Hungary without your whimsical reportage.
    So old-fashioned, much of it seems. However much it may be a little knocked about, it's nonetheless romantic, better for its patina, better for not being too worldly.
    May there be many more picnics for you!

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    1. Dearest Faisal, for a moment we thought that you were describing us...old-fashioned, a little knocked about, romantic, wearing the patina of age and not being too worldly....indeed,come to think of it, your descriptions suits us perfectly!!!!! No wonder we are attracted to Esztergom!!!!

      Hoping that all is well with you down under!!

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  34. Quite superb, Jane and Lance. Your wonderful photos make me nostalgic for Prague, which has many similarities of architecture and setting, even to the detailing of wrought-iron and faded Baroque. I'm guessing that using portrait mode for your images enables you to make them as large as this with no risk of distortion in your post, a tip I must remember. :-)

    Thank you for taking me on this journey to a slower and more gracious setting and mode of life.

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    1. Yes, there must be so many parallels with Prague for you. Amazingly, we have yet to get there and we really do wish to visit one day.

      You are quite right about using the camera in a portrait mode. Ours is a very basic camera but, when used in this way, it really does enable the images to be enlarged with no loss of detail. We particularly wanted this effect for this post to create an illusion of walking into the picture. We were taught the trick by our friend, Paul, who uses this with the most beguilingly beautiful of results on his own blog 'Gervais de Bedée'.

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  35. Oh what a wonderful place ! How lucky you get to live there :)
    besitos, C

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    1. Yes, Candice, Esztergom is a wonderful place to visit and to spend time exploring.

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  36. Hello! After reading your post I felt as if I was along with you on the picnic and the train travel, the basilica, the cathedral and the banks of Danube. Even if you haven't put the pictures in the post I would have seen all through your eyes. Bless me please so I can write like you do, dear Jane and Lance

    Best wishes

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    1. Thank you so much for your most kind and generous comment. We are so pleased that you enjoyed the photographs and are thrilled that you find the descriptions illuminating too.

      Perhaps one day you will travel to our corner of the world and we can explore the many treasures of Hungary together? We do hope so. And enjoy a picnic on the banks of the mighty Danube!!!

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  37. Sigh. I feel as if I have gone away on a trip to a magical place. Of course, it's the kingdom of Hattatt where lovely days like this are the norm and everyone is allowed to come along (as long as we bring our own picnic, because some of us have some very strange tastes and can't expect everyone to want the same).

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    1. We love the idea of a 'Kingdom of Hattatt' where everything is wonderful and everyone is welcome, the perfect antidote to modern day living in our view!

      However, how we should love to travel to the State of Hartman where decades simply roll back to reveal a life of Rockabilly frocks, spam fritters and giant Martinis. What could be nicer....or more fun?!!

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  38. Dear Jane and Lance,

    I thoroughly enjoyed this wonderfully informative and sensory-laden tour. History, nature, a lipstick-red train, lemonade, monks, magnificent architecture...More and more I want to visit your part of the world; meanwhile thank you for allowing me to armchair travel there.

    xo,

    Jen

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    1. Dearest Jen, oh how we should love you to visit us here in Budapest. You capture the essence of Esztergom and so many other wonderful towns in Hungary when you write that they are 'sensory laden'. It is, at times, quite overwhelming when faced with such a wealth of simple beauty and faded elegance.

      We seem to have lost touch rather in recent months and we are very sad about that. We do so hope that all is well with you and that spring has arrived with a flourish in your corner of the world.

      Delete
  39. What a lovely picnic tip. Thank you for taking us along and letting us savour the atmosphere through your photos of these hidden gems.

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    1. We are delighted that you have enjoyed your 'virtual' tour. We are no photographers and so an enormous number of pictures were taken in order to be able to select a few worth viewing!!

      Delete
  40. Dear Jane and Lance,
    I truly love visiting your blog. It is always a journey to another land. Thank you for taking me along with you.
    Cheryl

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    1. Sometimes, dear Cheryl, we feel that we are on another planet, never mind in another country!!

      We are thrilled that you have joined us!

      Delete
  41. It sounds like a great idea, would be a great pleasure to be on the banks of Danube in your company. In the mean time if you travel across the pond to USA please inform me, it would be great honor to be your host.

    Best wishes

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    1. What a delightful invitation! Our fear of flying has meant that we have yet to venture across the Atlantic Ocean, but we do so want to make a visit there one day. In our imaginations, we plan a most wonderful Trans-American adventure, calling in on our blog friends en route, and we should absolutely love to include a stop with you. Never say never.....

      Delete
  42. This is what I think of as the good life. Nothing feels hurried and all is in its place with things still left to discover.

    These are all such beautiful old buildings and what a nice spot for a picnic. Thanks for sharing these photos. Of course the highlight of your day trip for me is the thought of sauntering over to the second-hand store.

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    1. Well, we think of it as the good life too and, hopefully, we never stop counting our blessings that we can do these things. Never mind the schooldays, we really do think of these as the best days of our lives!!!

      Although we rummaged for an hour or so in our tiny second hand shop, we did not make a purchase on this occasion. Still, there are plenty more Fridays....

      Delete
  43. I just love your posts. The way you share the photographs makes me feel that I am there taking a little walk with you and I admire your eye for detail; for noticing the things others might just miss. Prague is looking ever more interesting through your eyes xx

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    1. We are delighted that you have enjoyed the post. These images are in fact from Esztergom although, as our commentator Perpetua noted, they are reflective of so much Baroque and Classicist architecture to be seen throughout Central Europe, including Prague.

      It is so nice on occasions, we think, to really take the time to wander slowly and look carefully for it is amazing how many gems one can discover that way!

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  44. What beautiful photos of a beautiful place. I love spending a day in a scenic spot, sipping a cool refreshing iced tea or lemonade, watching the scenery and people going by. I enjoyed my glimpse into this lovely day. xo

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    1. Yes, there is nothing better than time at leisure with chilled drinks on hand as one people watches the day go by.

      Thank you for your kind comment. We are so pleased that you enjoyed the post.

      Delete
  45. Thanks for posting this description & the photos Jane & Lance, I must ask my friends if they have seen the Basilica, they have both been to Hungary several times.

    There is nothing better than coming across cultural gems and taking the time to explore them! So inspiring.

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    1. How very interesting that your friends have visited Hungary on several occasions.Esztergom is often included on the tourist trail because of the Basilica and its stunning situation on the banks of the Danube. We do so hope that your friends have seen it and, perhaps, have visited the Cardinal Mindszenty Museum which we feel is most informative and imaginatively presented and well worth visiting.

      Delete
  46. We have habits too. We do these things over and over because they make us happy and bring us peace. You shared such wonderful pictures. I was especially drawn to the one of the students and the lemonade. Beautiful!

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    1. Yes, like you, rather than finding routine tiresome, we find it comforting. we are so pleased to read that it is the same for you too.

      Thank you so much for your complimentary words on the photographs. We have a very basic camera and no talent so anything that emerges that is in the least bit interesting or even visible is a bonus!!! The lemonade was delicious.

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  47. I think it is part of human nature to be creatures of habit, so I am really not surprised by your routines. We also have them and were certainly well entrenched in them when we lived in the same house for over twenty years, nowadays we are trying to be a little less predictable. Thankyou for sharing your day out with us with lovely photos.

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    1. One must, as you say, guard against becoming too predictable or entrenched in one's ways. We are all for injecting a little madness whenever the mood takes just to stir up things and add spice to life!

      Delete
  48. I'm always astonished by the beauty and history of Europe. Living in a place where nothing is much older than 100 years, I can only imagine how fun it must be to go on these explorations. Would that I could fit in your handbag and go along for the ride!

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    1. Oh, Elizabeth what a marvellous thing it would be to be able to shrink on demand and be popped into a pocket!And, how we should love to have you with us on our adventures, capturing the special moments with your beautifully crafted and witty drawings.

      The riches of Europe are indeed more than one can even contemplate seeing in a lifetime. We do so love being in Hungary with all the freedom of travel to both East and West that this gives and its great feeling of 'Mittel Europe'. America must feel so youthful in comparison.

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  49. Thank you so much for such a beautiful post. It brought it all back to me. My friend and I loved Esztergom, it has made me long to go back. Not only were the photographs wonderful but it was so beautifully written, almost poetic.
    Thank you again.xxxxx

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    1. Thank you so much, Janette, for your most generous comment. How thrilled we are that you too love Esztergom and, clearly, remember your visit with your friend fondly.

      Delete
  50. Gorgeous little town! If I had such an exqusite place such as Eseztergom near by, I beleive I would make a weekly pilgrimage there too! What a delightfully preserved village, I'd love to peek into that apartment a bit more!
    The routines you both enjoy are very soothing to think about...I can only imagine how soothing they are to actually experience!
    Have a lovely week...
    xo J~

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    1. The apartment house design is very typical. A large front door opens from the street and the apartments within are arranged on a number of levels around a central courtyard. Flights of often elegant steps lead one up to the various floors with a back staircase which would have been access for servants or tradespeople in the past. We loved the light that was streaming through from the courtyard which lit up the stairs inviting one to enter in!!

      We do enjoy our comfortable routines but,on occasion, add a little craziness just to give life a little more edge. That is if a little more edge is needed!!

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  51. Esztergom--what a blissful way to spend the day. And of course I am reminded of Leigh Fermor's beautiful passage as he stood on the bridge, and of learning from you that it was destroyed in WWII and only recently rebuilt. Thank you for giving us this bountiful glimpse.

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    1. We are very fond of the writing of Patrick Leigh Fermor and friends of ours were neighbours of his when they were in Greece.

      We actually went to Esztergom on the occasion of the reopening of the bridge with Slovakia, after its reconstruction in October 2001. That was an incredibly joyous occasion with hundreds of people taking part in the festivities. Passports were stamped at the border between the two countries. Today, with the Schengen agreement, there are no border controls.

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    2. I remember you having written you were there for the occasion. How magnificent that must have been--a story worthy of Leigh Fermor's, I'd say. But then, you do live in a storied place.

      Delete
    3. Yes, Susan, the day was great fun. A huge international party, or so it felt at the time. Even the police and border guards rose to the occasion by posing for photographs as they stamped passports!

      Delete
  52. It was wonderful sharing your day out with you. Some of your pictures remind me of parts of Europe in the 1960's and 70's. I read the book by Andrew Eames about his trip down the Danube a few years ago, and found it interesting learning more about Hungary.
    Sarah x

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    1. There is much evidence of the 1960s and 1970s in architectural terms throughout Eastern Europe and it is sad that such a lot was of poor quality and has not stood the test of time at all successfully.

      We are so pleased, Sarah, that you are enjoying knowing more about our adopted home of Hungary. Andrew Eames' book, which we too have read, was indeed most interesting and informative.

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  53. Lance and JAne,

    I love coming along on your adventures. From your descriptions I feel as if I am walking along side you have some tea, cake and coffee. I have never been to Hungary and your photos make me want to visit.

    Have a great week. Elizabeth

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    1. Coffee and cake are part of the staple diet here in Hungary! And, wherever one may find oneself, there is always delicious cake and excellent coffee to be had. In England, we find that the reverse is often the case and to come across a drinkable cup of coffee is the exception rather than the rule.

      Delete
  54. hello Jane and Lance,
    Creatures of habit you may be, but they are such wonderful habits!
    A really interesting post.

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    1. Well, Gaynor, we do try to keep our bad habits well hidden!!!!

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  55. These photos are magnificent. Thanks for sharing your picnic excursion with us.

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    1. We are so pleased that you have enjoyed looking at the photographs and that you joined us for the ride!

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  56. Oh that sounds like a delightful day! And what lovely weather you are experiencing - perfect for picnics!

    I also really like the idea of coffee and cake after church every Sunday - that sounds great :-)

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    1. As we write, the rain is pouring down mercilessly but it is incredibly warm. It is just like having an outdoor shower room!

      Our favourite Cukrászda is just a few moments walk away from the church and so is perfectly situated for impromptu refreshments. They make their own cakes, pastries and ice cream and the coffee is Italian. It is, Clare, our idea of heaven on earth.

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  57. That looks like a beautiful day in all respects! The photographs all exude calm tranquility and warmth, and those lemonades look so refreshing! On a very grey day in the UK, looking at your photographs and reading about your excursion has made me feel very much as though I've enjoyed a pleasant day out of my own! Thank you for taking me with you!

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    1. The day was extremely hot as it happens so the iced lemonades were needed and appreciated. So good were they that we returned for seconds a couple of hours later!

      We hear nothing but gloomy news of the UK weather but, today, to make things more even it is wall to wall grey skies and heavy rain here in Budapest!!!

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  58. Working in travel, as I do, I can suggest Esztergom as a day trip from Budapest! We have many clients who do the Danube river cruises.
    I love the intricate iron work, beautiful old buildings and the lemonade looks very refreshing.
    It sounded like a lovely day x

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    1. We can certainly recommend Esztergom as a perfect day trip destination from Budapest and it is fairly straightforward for tourists to be able to do. So many things in Hungary appear very complicated for foreigners and the language can be a big barrier, but Esztergom is accessible and well worth the trouble to get there.

      The Danube river cruises do seem to be very popular but we are always a little sad that so little time is given for exploring Budapest whereas Vienna and Prague are generally the focus of attention.

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  59. Such a romantic set of photographs - I would just love to accessorize my home with that departure board.
    The steel and glass structure of Nyugati Pályaudvar looks grand without being imposing or ostentatious, I just long to be there watching the world go by. A glass of real lemonade too - perfect.

    "Enjoy the little things, for one day you may look back and realize they were the big things." - Robert Brault

    I'm also very taken with the door handle on the apartment - ornate but not showy.

    The weather looks beautiful, the soft pastel hues which surround you are at their best in this light.

    I'm extra dreamy after studying your photographs - thanks both!

    Lucy x

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    1. Yes,Lucy, we too love the departure board which is so wonderfully 'manual' given the digital age in which we live.

      The painted stucco of the buildings did look extremely good in the wonderfully clear light of the sunny spring day. Our particular favourite is a washed out Hapsburg Yellow which, when we had a garden, we painted a tower to serve as a constant reminder of Hungary.

      Your delightful quotation from Robert Brault could be our motto in life. Perfect!

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  60. Dear friends,
    I "sympathize" with you as I also love my habits.
    It seems your habits are very well supported by such lovely views and locations, I'm sure no one would blame you for being so attached to them :)

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    1. Although we have never had children, we are sure that you find routines absolutely essential for staying sane with a small child around the house. In our teaching days, we found that not only did 'habits' help us in the classroom, the pupils responded positively to them too. They are reassuring, we find!

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  61. Hello Jane and Lance! What a fine way to spend a Sunday. Crisp clear weather conditions for lovely photographs.

    Was thinking of you both recently when listening to radio commentary about the Brighton Arts Festival and wondered if you had been there. These days, whenever I hear Brighton mentioned, I think of you - as I know of no other who hails from there.

    Hope you are both well.

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    1. The Brighton Festival is a wonderful celebration of all things connected with the Arts and is a massive draw for people the length and breadth of England and much farther afield. We shall, unfortunately, miss it this year as we are in Budapest and we are particularly disappointed to be missing the Artist Open House event which runs alongside the main Festival programme.

      It is so nice that you think of us whenever Brighton is mentioned [as it often is, we find]. We too think of you fondly, dear Isobel, and are continuing to use your beautiful handmade cards. They make us smile.

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  62. Dear Jane and Lance,

    nothing new here - I love your posts!
    I enjoyed this one immensely. Your style of writing (if only I could depcit a scene like you) is just beautiful. Again, I feel like I was there with you.
    I love your habits, I love the fresh lemonade, but most of all, I love, love, love Eiffel's notice/ departure board and his room/ building made of glass and steel. Absolute masterpiece. Not only have I liked the pictures, but as always, I have learnt something new.
    Absolute jem of a post.
    Thank you.
    Enjoy your lazy days in sunny Budapest and her surroundings.

    Red

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    1. We are sure that the architecture and the way of life in Esztergom comes as no surprise to you, Red, and surely mirrors in so many ways that to be found in your own home country.

      The building at Nyugati Pályaudvar is indeed a triumph of metal and glass and, when coupled with the announcing of travel locations to all points East, it becomes so wonderfully exotic and romantic.

      Thank you so much for your kind words. We trust that school is bearable!

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  63. I always admire the idea that the basilica was built on the highest point in town. Not only do the faithful have great views but the architecture dominates the town, as your photo suggests. Other church architecture at sea level may be beautiful, but those other churches don't have the impact your basilica does.

    Of course there is a price to pay. Walking up to the highest point in town might require a bit of effort, especially in summer and especially as we leave our 30s and 40s.

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    1. The position of the Basilica in Esztergom is truly stunning. High on a hill and with a sheer drop to the Danube below, we feel that this does take some beating. And, as you say,it does make a very definite presence in the town which one can only assume was a deliberate intention.

      As the day was exceedingly hot and as we have visited the Basilica on many earlier occasions, we did not make the uphill pilgrimage this time. However, what did strike us was the overwhelming presence of the Basilica rising up above us wherever we were throughout the town nestled below. This is what we tried to capture in the photographs.

      Delete
  64. those plane trees are just amazing. it looks and sounds as if the day was perfect. i am curious, are you both english?

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    1. The avenue of Planes really is amazing Janet. They are such beautiful and elegant trees and they way in which they swoop down to the water is truly delightful.

      We are both English, Janet, born and bred. One from the North and one from the South!!

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  65. Dearest Jane and Lance, thank you for taking me down memory lane today! This is indeed the town (I recognize the Basilica) where I spent some very memorable, but few hours, a decade ago! This is where I ate one of the most delectable meals of my life...and that view from the top was breathtaking...
    You photos are gorgeous, taken with a true artist's eye! I love seeing this in spring's freshness, for I was there in the deep chill of February.
    What glorious habits of a most glorious couple :))...
    Thank you so much for sharing the beauty of your day!

    And I thank you for joining my little tour of the family's summer habits in Minnesota...
    Please, do visit if the opportunity arises...I would be more than honored to welcome you!
    Blessings and wishes for a most joyful week,
    - Irina

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    1. Oh, Irina, what fun to think of you walking those same streets and seeing those same sights all those years ago. We are sure that very little will have changed in that time.

      And, how marvellous to have seen it all in the depths of winter. We have been there too at that time of year and it is, perhaps, even more striking when the trees are bare structures, stripped of their leaves.

      Minnesota sounds to be our kind of place with so many cultural activities and wonderful countryside. Perhaps if our Trans-American tour ever becomes anything but a dream, our paths may cross for real one day!!

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  66. A delicious post about a lovely, lazy afternoon. I am pleased to see that this beautiful town was not leveled during WWII, as so many unfortunate ones were. RD

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    1. There was a great deal of damage in the town during World War II, not all of which, sadly, has been sympathetically reconstructed. However, as you say, much of architectural merit remains and can be enjoyed today.

      Delete
  67. Sounds like you have been inspired by Heather, of Lost in Arles fame, to explore the unexpected. What an extraordinary amount of observation you packed into but one day. Apart from the iced lemonades sending a chill down my spine (she says as she pulls her coat closer), being of course late autumn here, it looks like a most delicious day. History, architecture, people watching, cafes, picnics - it doesn't get much better!

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    1. We absolutely adore Heather's posts and do so hope one day to entice her to explore some of Budapest's hidden gems with us here.

      The iced lemonades today do not seem such a good idea as we have non-stop rain and not a sunbeam in sight! However, they were bliss on the day we visited Esztergom when it was scorchingly hot. Yes, a truly delicious day!

      Delete
    2. Yes, perhaps you need to entice Remi to do a story on it - to capture this hauntingly beautiful architecture with his extraordinary images.

      It's an interesting point about the lemonade. Whenever I am packing in one climate, to travel to quite a different one, I always seem to pack things which would be more suitable for where I am, rather than where I will be. More practice required - should solve the problem!!

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  68. A magnificent day... it's the simple joys of life that mean the most. The picture of the monk going about his work is quite nice... I always pictured them in some mountainous region. Nice to read about your delightful little adventures...

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    1. The Franciscan monk seemed to pop out of nowhere and, equally quickly, disappeared from view. It was a lucky snap!

      We are so pleased that you have enjoyed the post. Life is full of adventure, we think, even in the everyday.

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  69. Such history in these wonderful photographs. I enjoyed this very much as I haven't called by in a while. Hope you are both well.
    R

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    1. We are so pleased to see you, Rose, and hope that you are well too!

      There is very much a sense of history when walking the streets of Esztergom and we are delighted that you have enjoyed the post.

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  70. OOhhh dear Jane and Lance,
    It reads like a fairy tale. I was walking along the streets with you and peeping through the windows of the anique shop. What a wonderful magnificent day you both had.
    I am in love with Budapest. Your description of the little houses so pretty and just thinking of sipping tea or lemonade beside the Danube. ahh what sheer delight.
    How great to see a monk.. we see too few of them here now in Portugal.
    Enchanting
    kind regards
    val

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    1. The monk was passing by at great speed so we were very fortunate to capture him on camera!

      Such days as these really are the stuff of dreams and we feel so very fortunate to be able to enjoy them at our leisure without any pressures of deadlines or work.

      You also live in a beautiful part of the world and we so enjoy travelling vicariously through you too!

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  71. What a great way to travel--on a schedule for drinks and food, but wandering to discover the rest of the time.
    And now I am totally cutting mint out of my garden thanks to your pictures.

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    1. The addition of the Mint to the Lemonade was a touch of brilliance. It really did add a refreshing zest to the drink and, yes, we would urge you to do the same. How wonderful it will be with fresh Mint snipped from the garden!

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  72. What a great day! You manage to pack in quite an itinerary.
    How wonderful for you to be able to amble at will amongst the quiet streets of Ezstergom before the tourists arrive and soak up the real essence of the town.
    Such intrigue and mystery ensued as I read your post. Where was the monk heading to? What did the shady courtyard look like? Why are the Cat Stairs so called? and lastly but by no means least, what did you have in your picnic basket?
    Paul

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    1. We do so agree with you, Paul, about the ability of hordes of tourists to suck the life out of a place. It just becomes so much more difficult to see anything and to enjoy the peace and quiet away from the madding crowd.

      We like to leave a little mystery or two in our posts since we think that this adds interest and, hopefully, always the wish to return for more!Alas, whilst the mystery monk remains just that, the secret courtyard waits to be discovered and the Cat Stairs are shrouded in history the picnic 'basket' was a carrier bag containing ham sandwiches and bananas......oh, the devil is always in the detail!!!!!

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  73. Dear Jane and Lance,
    just coming back from a week in hectic London, your post makes me dream of a picnic with icy lemonade (here in Berlin we have a heat wave - in London we wore thick garments). Your pictures are alluring as ever - there is a special dreaminess of Hungary that really appeals to me. Lovely!

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    1. Welcome back, Britta we have missed you! From snow to sunshine, you really have seen it all. And here in Budapest, although we were having some lovely hot sunny days today has been totally grey with non-stop rain!

      We are so pleased that you enjoyed the post and thank you so much for the compliment on the photographs. We do so hope that we might tempt you here one day to experience the 'dreaminess' all for yourself!

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  74. You two have the funnest adventures I can imagine (and some I cannot). Just the words of the descriptions snap photos into being that no camera can. I am THERE.


    And I cannot refrain from telling such Garden Artists as yourselves that yesterday during our little dinkering about with pots and petunias, Our GrandDaughter, age four, burst into song: "I'm the farmer of SEE-BILL!! FEEE-garo, Feegaro, Feeeeeegaro!"

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    1. Dearest Rachel, more often than not, we leave your own marvellous posts with broad smiles on our faces from the wonderful stories that you have to tell of life across the Ocean!

      It sounds as if your granddaughter is headed for the Metropolitan Opera already. A diva at four...can it get any better?!!!

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  75. Dear Jane and Lance, I'm happy to now report that at long last it's actually picnic weather here today too. It has been glorious. Hard to believe we were freezing cold on our way home from a concert at the Cathedral last night (more of that in a forthcoming post).

    The walkway along the Danube Canal looks a delightful place for a picnic and I just love the photo of the open doorway (can never resist them!)

    Oh btw, in reply to your question regarding the choir, I have decided that I would like to take some singing lessons to get the old voice up and running again before subjecting myself to an audition. Will keep you posted.

    Jeanne
    x

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    1. Oh Jeanne, we are delighted to hear that you will take up some singing lessons. We are sure that you will be 'up and running' in no time and then the choir will surely beckon. It is such a companionable activity and there is the most glorious feeling when everyone and everything comes together on cue!

      At last you have the sun and now we have the rain. The day today could not be different from the one we experienced in Esztergom. No, we can never resist an open doorway either!

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  76. you pictures and thoughts are just wonderful!
    lucky you!!

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    1. Thank you, Annmarie for your most kind comment. We do feel that these are the best times of our lives!

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  77. Really interesting to see another design by Eiffel. I have told my friend whose Hungarian parents left their home in 1956/57 about your blog

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    1. It is surprising how few people know that the station is a design of Eiffel. We like it very much indeed.

      Thank you so much for highlighting our blog to your parents. There were enormous numbers of Hungarians who left the country at the time that they did and made completely new lives for themselves in other countries.

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  78. Such wonderful buildings. I could stare all day at some of that stucco.

    Do please tell, what was in your lemonade. I see lemons, mint and something I can't identify.

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    1. The iced lemonades were indeed delicious! In addition to the lemon and mint, lime and grapes had been included,hence the spoon to fish the grapes out!

      We associate peeling stucco with Hungary.It is reminiscent of a bygone age of elegance and the colours are always so beautifully muted. We too could stare at it all day!

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  79. Such beautiful pictures thank you. I felt totally immersed in all that history and scenery; I felt your pace and happiness through your wonderful commentary. It seems that you both had a lovely day taking it all in. What a treat and thank you so much for sharing. Annie x.

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    1. We are delighted that you enjoyed the virtual tour. It was one of those days when one is so glad to be alive and not have to rush for anything.

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  80. If only I could take a ride on that train with you, and see all those amazing places that you so generously share in your blog!

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    1. And, Olga, if only we had your talent and skill with a camera.....!!!!

      Hoping that your week is taking a more leisurely pace too!

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  81. A huge joy to connect and see these stunning photos and join you on your journey. What a wondrous life! Thank you for visiting me ... so miss dear Edith and do give her a big hug, hoping her adventures are still as awesome as her love for beauty/humor in life.

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    1. Oh, dearest Joey, we are so thrilled that you are our latest follower. Edith is a story in herself and we shall, most certainly, share all with you one day.

      We are so pleased that you enjoyed the post. Of course, if you had prepared the picnic then the day would have been perfection indeed!!

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  82. Very evocative photos. Especially the one of the monk hurrying along. Seems all rather lovely in that town actually - bit decayed, but that makes it interesting, gives it just the right touch so that it's not twee, like so many old towns.

    And your lemonade...it is going to be hot again here today (positively boiling yesterday) and those drinks look perfect. Just what one needs when the sun is out in full force.

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    1. You are so right, Wendz. Esztergom is rather down at heel but it is, perhaps, almost because of this that we enjoy visiting it so much. As you say, one could not pretend that this is a 'chocolate box' village and it is all the more honest because of that.

      We are delighted that the sun is shining on you at last. The rain has arrived here in sympathy!!!

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  83. 'Sipping tea by the Danube' would make a wonderful title for a book. I am sure you have got one in you, an alternative travel guide perhaps. With the addition of your wonderfully atmospheric photo's it would be a best seller.

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    1. Oh, Susan, yes, what a perfect title. But, we doubt very much that we are the people to write it!

      You are always so very generous to us with your loyal support and your kind comments. Thank you so very much!!

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  84. "the everyday, but never the commonplace, life" needs it's lolvey routines. Magic is something we are creating ourselves isn't it? Repetition and stability are essential for an exceptional existance...

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    1. Dearest, Demie, how lovely to hear from you. We have missed you so very much and hope that all is well with you.

      How beautifully you capture the essence of the magic that is life. Yes, we do agree, that we must create it for ourselves and, indeed, it is always there for the finding in even the simplest of activities if only one looks.

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  85. Thank you Jane and Lance for the really sweet comment on my blog, I will still be following blogs as I will need things to inspire me. Once I can find a way so that I am not so sad, I will be back blogging again too. Thank you again for your many wonderful comments. Launna

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    1. Oh, Launna, we are so very sorry that things are not going well at all for you at the moment. Of course, it is good to take a break, but we are heartened to think that you will still be connecting with those things which are uplifting. They help in times of crisis.

      Take great care!

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  86. Gorgeous buildings and settings. And that lemonade looks great:) Even in London the sun is shining today:)

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    1. Thunderstorms, black skies and rain here today, so we seem to have weather swapped with Blighty!!

      We are so pleased that you enjoyed the 'tour' and, yes, the lemonade was delicious!

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  87. Hello Jane and Lance,
    What a beautiful way to spend a day. I would love to follow in your foot steps the exact day right down to the lemonade and to travel there by train. I enjoyed the tour!
    xo
    annie

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    1. We are delighted that you have enjoyed travelling with us. Some days really are just perfect in every way and, this one, was most definitely that.

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  88. If I lived where you do I would also be a creature of habit.
    What a beautiful tour of such a lovely city.

    cheers, parsnip

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    1. Certain habits and routines we find very pleasant and reassuring. But, one does have to guard against becoming complacent and not wanting to strike out with something new. However, even when one does something many times, it is amazing how there is often something very different to experience.

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  89. What a MAGNIFICENT post. I can't believe you opened up with the creatures of habit bit and then unfolded in this manner -- brilliant!

    1,000 years of religious devotion had my heart hammering. Not in pace and sound but in spirit. And the boys in suits are probably my favorite of a post with such a delicious braiding of imagery and the voices of my dear FGPs which I now recognize so well.

    I can picture you sipping the lemonades, trickling and treacly. I can envision you rocketing through the country in the speeding tube of lipstick!

    I love that you have shared this with all of us but I like to be secretly greedy and selfish and indulgent and imagine that you shared it just with me! :D

    So happy to have read these words and journeyed with you -- to and from Esztergom.

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    1. Dearest, dearest Fairy Goddaughter Suze, how we so wish that you had been travelling on the 'red rocket' with us! That would surely have made the day the best ever.

      We had not one but two lemonades, the second even more elaborate than the first. The charming waitress really did go to town with the 'fruit salad'which went into it and, although she willingly posed for a photograph, we have kept that for another time.

      Everywhere throughout Esztergom one is acutely aware of the Church with all its power and influence, from the siting of the Basilica up on high to the Cardinal Mindszenty museum and to the monks and priests going about their business throughout the town. Such an ancient religious seat, does, as you say, make one's spirits rise.

      Hoping that your work is going well......fingers and toes are crossed!!!!

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    2. Dearest FGPs,

      We go through seasons with our work, and right now, the season I am in is one of great productivity, discovery and encouragement -- my own lipstick bullet train.

      Wishing you a summer of many Churches with a capital C, many elaborate lemonades and many charming persons willing to pose for photographs to capture the singular beauty of The Journey.

      Much love,
      Your FGD

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    3. Oh how we are heartened to hear that you are speeding along, wind beneath your wings and heart racing.We trust that the novel is unfolding faster than the speed of light, characters springing to life and agents fighting to get their hands upon it!

      We wish you everything you hope for and just a little more as you truly deserve it but are probably too polite to ask. And, iced lemonades and palm trees to remind you of Hawaiian days and nights!!!!

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  90. Gradually, I am learning bit by bit about Budapest and Hungary through your stories and photos. I wanted to read the history of Esztergom particularly that of the past century and of Medieval Esztergom. You both are bringing me across the miles to enjoy this place, to walk the streets, to enjoy a lemonade, and to ride the train back to Budapest. I cannot imagine the layers of relics and history in its soil but the beauty of this walk under the Plane trees along the Danube is refreshing.

    The West station by M. Eiffel is indicative of his style and other works... glass and iron, and the focal point of this station. I, too, would have loved to ride the "red bullet" with you both (and Suze) taking about the day's adventure in Esztergom...

    Hugs,
    Genie

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    1. We are absolutely delighted that you are enjoying knowing more about our adopted country of Hungary. We find it, its people and its history endlessly fascinating and are constantly amazed at how little is generally known about Hungary outside the country itself.

      The connection with Eiffel is most interesting we think. We did not really capture the essence of the iron structure in our photographs, if only we were as professional as you,but in reality the parallels are definitely evident.

      Perhaps one day you may be tempted to ride the red bullet with us in person. That would be so good.

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  91. That was such a treat, and just what I needed at the end of a long day of furniture hunting in a good 42 C.
    Really, you do take us right 'there' with your wonderful posts. The Danube looks so peaceful and welcoming; and with the leafy Plane trees, it must be the perfect summer escape.

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    1. Gosh, that does seem very hot for furniture hunting or anything else for that matter. Just sitting in the shade in 42C would have us more than wilting.

      Yes, the Danube does make a striking impression on the town and there is always a gentle breeze on even the hottest of days to cool one down. We are so pleased that you have enjoyed the 'tour'!!!

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  92. Hi Jane & Lance,

    What an interesting town to go to on a weekly outing. The market sounds good and the old buildings look beautiful. The funny thing is that since I started reading your blog I am getting more and more interested in Hungary! I did not realise it had so much to offer. Why go to Paris and Rome? Go to Hungary & Budapest instead :-)

    The lemonade looks delicious and those visits to the Patisserie too!!!

    Have a lovely weekend!

    Madelief x

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    1. Yes, Madelief, Budapest awaits you with all its marvellous architecture and hidden delights.And, of course, the most delicious of iced lemonades and cakes!

      We are delighted that your interest in this most beguiling of cities has been piqued and we should be thrilled to be your hosts should a taste of adventure bring you here one day!!

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  93. Hello Jane and Lance,
    You two are really getting into the alliteration titling of postings. Well done! I hope your butcher is okay that you have "patronised" them :)
    Seriously, yes seriously, such a wondrous journey you take us on via your delightful words and your accompanying photos.
    Ah, creatures of habit. I'm a creature of habit. I regularly check my post for the mountain of mail from my adoring fans. I have to go incognito when I go out and about in case the Paparazzi and those pesky autograph hunters are chasing me. And then I woke up.
    Marvellous musings made magical. Thanks and take it easy.
    One of your legion of starstruck fans, Gary!

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    1. We do so agree that the bounty of autograph hunters who trail after one can be so tiring, but, then, one draws upon one's professionalism and puts on the everlasting smile. For, what is far worse that being talked about is not to be talked about at all!!!

      We are delighted that you enjoyed the 'stroll' through Esztergom and are pleased that it brought out the alliteration in you too!!!!

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  94. Hi Jane and Lance, I love your daily rituals, especially the sound of afternoon tea! Your photos are mesmerising as usual and I hope the lovely May weather continues. Thanks for your message too; that is so wonderful that your friend knew Elizabeth David xx

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    1. Afternoon Tea, yes it is something of an institution with us.We love the Hungarian cuisine which we eat all the time and adore the cakes and pastries which we also eat all the time but, we have to bring the tea from England!!!

      We do so wish that we too had met Elizabeth David. Such an iconic figure of the culinary world and our friend was quite close to her. Such a pity that our paths never crossed as we should have wanted to ask so much.

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  95. It's nice to see daily routines being followed the world over, especially in such beautifully historic surroundings where ritual is actually part of the rich tapestry of these places. In this modern age being a creature of habit is all too often looked upon negatively, but I rejoice in my routines and am pleased to see you do too.

    By the way, I don't know it it's your sort of thing but I've given you the One Lovely Blog award over at my blog, here, as I so much enjoy reading your thoughts and experiences.

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  96. how utterly brilliant......that staion looked so amazing I love train stations but that one is very special.....and the iced lemonade? Onr of my favourite summer drinks!!

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  97. Nice place for a summer lemonade!

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