Tuesday, 12 February 2013

As Luck Would Have It

Crossing the Danube via the Elizabeth Bridge, it is impossible to ignore the Klothilde Palaces. Side by side, a matching pair, they act as sentinels, guarding the gateway to nineteenth century Pest. 

For too many years they remained neglected, run down, symbols of a troubled past. That is until very recently when Fortune, smiling and munificent, restored these wayward twins to former glory.

the Klothilde Palaces [courtesy of Geolocation, Wikimedia] looking west

We are no strangers to them. For in December of last year M, our most generous friend, following a spectacular evening at the ballet, hosted the most glittering dinner and party in what has now become the Buddha Hotel, Restaurant and Bar.

the grand staircase of the Klothilde Palace leading upwards to the Buddha Bar [December]

looking down from above into the Buddha Restaurant on the night of M's December party

And only last week we were there once more, together with M, this time in celebration of the Chinese New Year at Richard's invitation. What immense fun too it proved to be. Throughout dinner, each course more delicious than the last, in a restaurant which positively dazzled, we were entertained to cavorting, dancing dragons whose brilliance and colour transported us from a snow filled Budapest to an Orient of gaiety and promise.

a dragon cavorts in the most entertaining fashion through the Buddha Restaurant last week

an impassive Buddha looks on at the antics of the dragon in celebration of the New Year

striding into a New Year last week, a yellow dragon partnered by one clothed in red

Then in complete contrast, the gentle, quiet sophistication of a dancer whose beauty, grace and charm captivated and enthralled the entire room.

an admiring onlooker at an adjacent table looks on in wonder at the grace of the dancer

Afterwards, in the upstairs bar, and now well beyond the witching hour, to music, dancing, laughter and more dragons we ate the most wicked of chocolate puddings and 'partied' the night away.

much merriment and enjoyment to be had at our table in the bar, well into the early hours

And in opening our Fortune Cookies, no snakes in the grass to be found!

213 comments:

  1. oh how magnificent....I so want something magnificent to happen right now I really think I might just run away!!

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    1. We have never before celebrated the Chinese New Year but now really think that it must be a permanent date in the calendar. Such an excellent way of brightening up the dark days of winter.

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  2. How wonderful that they could restore those buildings in these times of economic troubles. So many treasures like these are left to rot or meet the wrecking ball.

    We also had a restaurant in Philadelphia, Pa named Buddha that looked very much like the restaurant in your pictures. It was the "place to go" a few years ago. I am not sure it is still there as "in these times" places come and go quickly.

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    1. To be absolutely accurate, Arleen, the second building is still under restoration but the difference where work is complete is amazing.

      Possibly your Buddha Restaurant may have belonged [belongs] to the same group. There is certainly another in Paris.

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  3. Is it not a wonder to be in such a splendid and historical place to be celebrating the wonder of another, oriental world, so gloriously brought before you. What a joyous occasion ... the pictures are wonderful and lovely to see! May I wish you both a very happy and prosperous Year of the Snake!

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    1. Thank you so much, Katherine, for your good wishes in this auspicious year!

      The surroundings in which we celebrated are most glamorous and so unlike Budapest of not so many years ago.

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  4. What a wonderful way to celebrate the Year of the Snake Jane and Lance and what a beautiful venue .......... you are always going to the most wonderful places ..... I'm just waiting for one of your invitations to be held at McDonald's !!!!!!!!! haha
    ...... and the dancer looks amazing ....... such poise and balance .....and, she is beautiful too .
    Happy Chinese New Year to you both ...... what are your Chinese Zodiac signs ? I am a Tiger. Grrrrrrr !! XXXX

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    1. This was, Jackie, entirely Richard's idea and we doubt that we should have thought of it at all ourselves. In the event it was, as you say, both a beautiful venue and enormous fun.

      But with you for company, we are certain that we could have a positive ball anywhere, even in a McDonald's!!

      Alas, in shame, we have to admit to not knowing our Chinese signs!

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  5. Chinese New Year celebrations in Budapest. If being able to see such is not why the internet was invented, it is a rather good aside. I am a little cross, as I don't think you use Euro, but a currency called something like a Florin. Holiday planning is hard work.

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    1. It was, Andrew, all very jolly.

      Now, to be warned in advance of next year! The Hungarian currency is the FORINT which fluctuates greatly, almost by the hour, and runs into the thousands very quickly! For example, a coffee is around 400.-Ft.

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  6. I have never been to a Chinese New Year's celebration. Your images are beautiful, and I can only imagine what a wonderful time you must have had!

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    1. Nor had we, Cheryl, before last Saturday night! But it was all huge fun and very, very colourful.

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  7. How lovely to be invited to be part of a magnificent celebration in such a palace. Your photographs really bring the feast to life and beautifully illustrate your post.

    Happy New Year!

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    1. A 'feast'is such an excellent description, Gaynor, and it was certainly that. Yes, we felt ourselves very privileged to be guests at such an event.

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  8. Hello Jane and Lance, Happy Chinese New Year! I am impressed with the architecture and restoration of the Klothilde Palaces, which appear to be a great resource for the city. The way the street bisects them kind of reminds me of a Damien Hirst installation.

    Wikipedia has a very good chart for figuring your Chinese animal years, and it even takes into account the overlap between Western and Chinese lunar years:
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chinese_zodiac

    --Road to Parnassus

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    1. It is a great happiness that, after so many years, there has been recognition, Jim, of the importance of the Klothilde Palaces which were, until recently, in the most sorry state.

      Thank you so much for taking the time and trouble to provide the link; we shall certainly follow it up. Meanwhile, Happy Year of the Snake to you too!

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  9. Oh - that first photographs is wonderful. Would you know why it is called the Elizabeth Bridge? Your dragons look equally marvellous and beats being squashed in Chinatown, London as we have been in the past!
    Best wishes
    Jenny

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    1. The bridge, 'Erzsébet Híd' is, or so we believe, named after one of the Habsburg family. The original was destroyed in the Second World War and this is a modern replacement which comes perilously close to a Baroque church on the Pest side!

      Chinatown in London is, we imagine, great fun, Jenny.

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  10. I enjoyed seeing the gorgeous entrance to the bridge and your photos of the Chinese New Year celebration . . .
    Happy New Year . . . Chinese style . . .

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    1. We are pleased that you enjoyed looking at the photographs, Lynne.

      The Klothilde buildings do make a very impressive sight, flanking the bridge, particularly so when illuminated at night.

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  11. Grumpy old bat that I am I am a little sad that the restoration comes about via a Buddha restaurant...but that's the way restoration has become with the poverty of public resources.

    However, what fun you had by surprising yourselves and partaking in your first Chinese New Year celebration.
    Not only from Africa, but also from the Hattatts is there semper aliquid novi.

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    1. We have to agree, dear Helen, that a Buddha Bar might not have been our first choice either. But, the building was in a parlous state, public finances here are in an even worse state and so, needs must...And, we have to say, that the main architectural features of the building have been restored beautifully and it is an exceedingly glamorous place in which to spend an evening!

      We are pleased that we can continue to surprise you with something new. Indeed, Budapest never ceases to amaze us in so many different ways!!!

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  12. Hello Jane and Lance - I find it of great interest that legends and myths surrounding dragons have been around for thousands of years both in the eastern and western cultures. We have our St. George and the Dragon, and the national symbol of Wales is of course the red dragon. The Chinese have their multi coloured dragons bring with them different symbolism - yellow symbolising the solemn empire, green a great harvest, red representing excitement. The dragon that chases the flaming pearl of wisdom can be seen on many artefacts.
    What is it about dragons and how is it that we have all adopted this mythical creature?
    Delighted that you celebrated the Chinese New Year in such magnificent style.
    PS I am sorry that I had to turn the verification back on. One person was inundating me relentlessly, and I have not seen them since switching back. I will give it another try in a couple of months.

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    1. Yes, Rosemary, why is it that Dragons continue to fascinate and intrigue? We have to say that we were completely entranced by the dancing dragons at the Buddha Bar, so incredibly energetic and the 'dragons' themselves were beautifully made. It all added a magical touch to the evening and transported us further East if only for one night...!!!

      We are so sorry that you have been pestered with spam again. Indeed, we have seen a little flurry of anonymous comments ourselves recently but it seems to have stopped and we just delete them. All so very trying!

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  13. Dear Jane and Lance...LOVE the first photo and the party looks like wonderful fun. In researching the Chinese years, I find I'm a snake. sigh. Why couldn't I be something wonderful like a dragon or sheep? Whoever said God doesn't have a sense of humor simply isn't listening closely enough.

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    1. The Klothilde Palaces are very impressive but had been reaching a point of no return. Although we loved them blackened and mysterious, we are happier now to see them restored to their former glory!

      But, dearest Sandra, there are so many different types of snake. It may not be that you are the human equivalent of a Boa Constrictor!!!!

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  14. What stunning palaces! Just breathtaking, would love to visit. Agree with Rosemary, the dragon lore is fascinating. I love Chniese New Year and am green with envy of your fabulous celebrations. : ~ ) Minerva ~

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    1. Budapest is absolutely overflowing with glorious architecture but, sadly, many buildings are still in serious need of repair and reconstruction.The Klothilde Palaces are indeed stunning and richly deserve their facelifts!

      The Chinese New Year party was enormous fun.....dancing until 2am!!!

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  15. I can see that Archduchess Klothilde Habsburg, daughter in law of King Franz Joseph, wanted these elegant palaces but why did she need two? And why are they on opposite sides of the street?

    Turn of the century Budapest must have been a hopping and jumping sort of city. So why did it all go so badly for the Klothilde Palaces? War damage, I am guessing. Or changes in Habsburg fortunes, perhaps.

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    1. Dearest Helen.....can one ever have too many palaces?!!!!

      The two Klothilde Palaces flank the road which is the entrance to Pest from the West over the Elizabeth Bridge. And, as a pair, not only do they give a pleasing symmetry to the whole architectural 'composition' but also add a regal and imposing air to that area.Presumably, this was the original intention. In the glory days they were home to luxury shops and apartments but had been badly damaged in both World Wars and in the Hungarian Revolution of 1956. They were then put to some state use but were sold to developers in 2002.

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  16. It looks and sounds as if you had a wonderful time...you really do have a group of fascinating and clearly, delightful friends. I think the photo of the dancer is fabulous....so delicate...just beautiful. J.

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    1. The dancer was, as you may imagine, truly delightful. The expression in her hands and the rhythmical movements of her body were simply beguiling. And, we were extremely fortunate that Richard, having commandeered the best table in the dining room,ensured that we had a fabulous view of it all.

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  17. I hadn't realised that I must visit Budapest until I read this post! What an interesting and varied life you lead - I shall enjoy following your adventures.

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    1. If you have yet to visit Budapest, Marianne, then we do so hope that you will be tempted to do so one day. It is a most fascinating city and the Danube panorama is truly magnificent.

      Thank you for your kind comment. We hope to welcome you back and now we shall go to seek you out!

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  18. The bar must have been the perfect setting for a Chinese New Year celebration. We celebrate every year - sometimes with dinner with friends, sometimes at Don Mee's for Dim Sum, but always to the accompaniment of dragons and drums. I've come to identify this celebration with pure joy and none of the obligation that seems to come with the Western New Year.
    Gorgeous photos!

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    1. How well, you put this. Yes, a celebration of pure joy, that is certainly how we felt it to be.

      The food was totally delicious. Three courses and pudding, each heralded with a new entertainment so it gave it all a very festive air. Your own celebrations also sound great fun. Although this was our first Chinese New Year celebration, we are certain that it will not be the last!

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  19. how magical is all I can say, a perfect evening, a Buddha bar, love the entrance with those amber lamps lighting the way up and the dancer's soft dress, may there be only happy snakes to be found all year.

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    1. Yes, happy snakes for you too, Linda!

      The staircase is very grand. One really does feel that one is making an entrance when ascending it. All that red carpet!!

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  20. A magical event at a magical place, and why not; magic happens where ever Hattatts are :)

    Best wishes

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    1. This is most generous of you. But really we were no more than the invited guests and the magic happened all around us.

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  21. So much history that we know nothing about. Those beautiful palaces are stunning. Why I ask myself do we flock to Paris when their are other beautiful places to explore in Budapest.
    You seem to be living a very fulfilled life and a real distant cry to when i used to visit your stunning garden in Herefordshire.

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    1. Budapest could, so easily, Sue, be a second Paris, or even a first! Sadly, the ravages of the last fifty or so years are much in evidence and there is little available money to rectify a worsening situation. This week has seen serious hunger marches.

      Yes, very different from our gardening days which do, of course, remain very happy memories.

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  22. At some point this year, we are going to have to get in our car and drive to see this fantastic city.

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    1. Indeed you must! It really is still one of Europe's best kept secrets.

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  23. Dear Jane and Lance,
    what a beautiful way to say good-bye to the Year of the Dragon and welcome the Year of the Water Snake! (Even when you didn't found a snake in the cookie :-)
    The Klothilde Palaces look impressing. Good that they were restaured - it is such a shame when cultural heritage is lost (by negligence, lack of money, or worst: by destruction through humans).
    The little dancer on the last photograph looks like an elf.
    May the New Year bring luck to us all!

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    1. We trust, Britta, that the Year of the Snake will bring us all much happiness and good fortune.

      The Klothilde Palaces are very much landmark buildings in Budapest and it is so good to see them being restored and put to new uses. They suffered badly in the past.

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  24. That looks and sounds like great fun. What a beautiful place to celebrate. The dancer and her dress are the picture of beauty. Love this post. I am a snake. ; )

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    1. It was indeed enormous fun, Teresa, and one of those evenings which will remain in the memory for a long time to come. The dancer was absolutely lovely.

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  25. Sigh. I love my little corner of the world but Abe Lincoln's boyhood home doesn't quite hold a candle to that! And nary a dragon to be found down at Pope Lick Creek (yes, it's a real place and not to worry,no Popes were harmed, or licked, in the naming). As always love coming by to see the sights through your eyes.

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    1. Pope Lick Creek, what an absolutely splendid name, Helen, and one almost too good to be true! We wonder how, and for what reason, it originated?

      So many wonderful places in the world. Many 'sighs' this side of the Atlantic!

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  26. What a beautiful place to celebrate the Year of the Snake. Budapest is on my list of 'must visit' places. The two palaces do look as though they could do with a scrub on the outside. Then again, so do I....

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    1. Certainly we believe that you would find much of interest in Budapest and it is, happily, not too far from you.

      The picture of the Klothilde Palaces shows the exteriors before cleaning. They are beginning to look much smarter now.

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  27. 'cavorting, dancing dragons whose brilliance and colour transported us from a snow filled Budapest to an Orient of gaiety and promise.'

    This, in particular, filled me. Also, I adore contrasts. Two notes played in tandem, richer for having been part of a pair.

    A gorgeous post, my beloved magical FGPs.

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    1. Dear FGD, contrasts always interest us too, perhaps a throwback to those essays at school where one was always asked to 'compare and contrast'!

      The whole evening, as we know you can so readily imagine, was huge fun.

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  28. Good evening Jane and Lance! I would tend to agree with the above comment that you attract magic where ever you go! Bravo to you! The condition of the Klothilde Palaces reminds me of the sorry state of some of the classical architecture to be found in Athens (where I worked for two years in the 1990's): pollution certainly takes its toll on such glorious architecture! Budapest is one of the Eastern Europe jewels I hope to visit one day.

    Warmest wishes,

    Stephanie

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    1. This is most kind of you, Stephanie. More we think that we are so fortunate to have many friends who possess a great love of life however it presents itself.

      Yes, we can readily understand the comparison which you make here with Athens. So many cities have suffered, and continue to suffer, the effects of pollution and Budapest is no exception. That said you would, we know, find it of huge interest.

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  29. Beautiful architecture to complement a magical evening. I am so happy that those two beautiful buildings were restored.

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    1. The Klothilde Palaces are very good examples of how, with money, time and imagination, it is possible to restore old buildings and put them to new uses.

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  30. When I lived in San Francisco, Chinese New Year was great fun. When we lived in NYC, it was fun and delicious. Here in Buenos Aires, it is just another day.. but the good news is, we are headed back to live in NY in a month or two and will have our choice of many New Year celebrations to enjoy !

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    1. We are so pleased for you, Candice, that at last progress is being made on your move back to New York and we very much hope that you will be nicely settled there in time for the next Chinese New Year.

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  31. Breathtaking. So glad they saved those palaces.

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    1. It is reassuring to know, Mitch, that for the moment the future of these buildings is assured. There are, as yet, many more to be saved.

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  32. The Buddha reminded me of Portmeirion (there's one like it there, by the path, in its own shelter) - surely one of the most curious places in Britain.

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    1. We have such very happy memories of visits to Portmeirion, Dominic, and Clough Williams-Ellis remains one of our all time favourite architects. Have you visited Plas Brondanw which was his family home? The garden used to be wonderful.

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  33. I'm so glad those beautiful buildings have been restored and there is new life and joy brought back into them! Your Chinese celebrations look such fun!
    Sarah x

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    1. The restoration of the Klothilde Palaces is very much a success story, Sarah. Unfortunately there are still many iconic buildings in Budapest which are crying out for similar treatment.

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    1. Happy ones, Isobel. But we do consider ourselves most fortunate in so many ways.

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  35. I was sorry to miss the dragon dance at the Chinese New Year celebrations in our city. The Chinese community put on their annual concert at City Hall last night, but the cold and lingering snow made it difficult for me to attend. Instead I enjoyed the University's contribution in the daytime today.
    How wonderful to enjoy this cultural event in such glamorous surroundings! You capture the magic of the moment so well; the elegant architecture, the animation of the golden dragon and the pose of the dancer with her beautiful hand movement.

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    1. How delightful, Linda, that your city marks the Chinese New Year in a noteworthy way. However, we are sorry to learn that the weather conditions prevented your attending the evening concert.

      You have noted the hand movement of the dancer. She was incredible in so many ways but that aspect of her dance was particularly beautiful and so very controlled. Lovely.

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  36. 'Gung Ho Fat Boy' (or words to that effect).

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  37. Fortune has smiled indeed. It is always wonderful to hear of such old and magnificent building being restored in this way and what a splendid night of music and colour you enjoyed. We have a very large Chinese community in Lanzarote but their New Year celebrations are overshadowed by the Carnival season, which has just begun here.

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    1. It was exactly as you say, Marilyn, a night of 'music and colour' which was enjoyed in the excellent company of friends.

      It is rather a shame that the celebrations of the Chinese community with you should coincide with the Carnival season. But that too sounds great fun.

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  38. My dear Jane and Lance,

    A stairway to the stars. By contemplating the magnificent building, elegant staircase, colourful dragon and a graceful Buddha and dancers, I feel elevated to the pavilion of the Orient. I hope that the Chinese New Year (the year of Snake, so I gathered) would bring good health, prosperity and happiness to you and to your creative life in Budapest. I think seeing the dragon dancing life would be enough to scare all the undesirable spirits away. A friend of mine who is Chinese usually invite the dragon to his house and the dragon dance from what I've seen is most acrobatic, soaring and energetic. It seems to be a combination of Savion Glover and Mikhail Baryshnikov.

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    1. Oh, ASD, what a wonderful description of the staircase leading to the Buddha Bar. It is truly magnificent and each time we ascend or descend it we feel that we are at some kind of Oscar performance!

      Thank you so much for the good wishes for the Year of the Snake which we extend to you a thousand times over. The dance of the dragons we found to be truly spectacular and very spirited in every way.

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  39. How wonderful that the palaces were restored, and being enjoyed. In several of your posts I have noticed happy marriages of the old and the new in Budapest.The party looks like such fun--I love the contrast of the mischievous dragon and the enchanting dancer.

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    1. For too long, Jen, the Klothilde Palaces were kept in a deplorable state. It is through foreign investment that they have been restored and for that we are so grateful.

      Yes, the dragons' dance, and that of the single dancer, were in complete contrast one with the other.

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  40. It's always good to see interesting landmarks restored. And what a glittering and wonderful party!

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    1. The party was absolutely fantastic, Jenny. One of those evenings to remembered for a long time to come.

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  41. We were very impressed by the architecture in Budapest last year and indeed it also reminded us of Paris. It's good to see these palaces being restored although there are a lot of other fine buildings which also need repair.
    But behind all the beautiful facades, I felt a sadness from the city's troubled legacy and hunger marchers certainly don't sound good.

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    1. There are, as you say here, Mairéad, many similarities between Budapest and Paris. What is needed here, as you will have seen for yourselves, is a great deal of investment before, as in some instances, it is too late.

      The past is never far away here and for a growing number life is becoming a real struggle. Often to be seen are queues for government hand outs of basic foods - something which one does not expect to see in an EU country.

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  42. Oh this post brings such lovely memories of when we visited Budapest this past September as we were very close to the Klothilde Palaces and passed them frequently. As a matter of fact one day we passed by and they were preparations for some grand party with red carpets and spotlights. I peeked my head in but that's as far as I got.

    Sounds as if you had a wonderful celebration.

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    1. How splendid that you have visited Budapest, Amelia, and know the Klothilde Palaces from first hand experience. The conversion of the one into the Buddha Hotel is very recent indeed and we do hope that this venture will prove to be successful.

      The evening was spectacular!!

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  43. Happy Chinese New year, Jane and Lance. The twin palaces are magnificent, and unique. How wonderful they have been restored,and why not a Buddha Restaurant! Your evening looks like so much fun and I love the final photo of Jane (?) looking very elegant as you welcome the dragons and Year of the Snake.

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    1. And a very happy New Year, Chinese or otherwise, Patricia, to you too.

      Yes, it really matters not at all to what purpose the restored buildings are put beyond the fact that they have been rescued and adapted to modern day living.

      The final photograph is, in fact, of our friend, M, who dresses beautifully at all times.

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  44. Budapest is a constant source of interest and fascination seen through your eyes, Jane and Lance! There's a real whirl of activity in your photos but that beautiful dancer really stands out as something poised and elegant.
    As a Pig (I'm SO annoyed about that!) I should never have got together with a Snake, but there you go. Happy New Year of the Snake. You certainly got it off to a good start! Axxx

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    1. We are delighted, Annie, that you too feel the fascination and interest which Budapest holds for us too. The young girl dancer was absolutely incredible - such poise, elegance and control.

      We have yet to look up to know what we are!! Perhaps unwise so to do!!

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  45. I have to admit, i don't remember the last time i went out and stayed out until the small hours. It looks like you had a wonderful, lush and fantastic night to welcome the year of the snake!

    Red

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    1. We tend to blame this habit of 'stopping out' on our friend, Richard, who, we maintain, leads us into naughty ways. On this particular occasion, as on many others, we are so glad that he does!

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  46. Oh, Jane and Lance, your evening celebrating the Chinese new year looked to be so much fun. And the dancer looked to be so graceful and captivating. It is lovely to share in other cultures with celebrations, isn't it?

    Take care, Tammy xx

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    1. Tammy, it WAS huge fun and we enjoyed every single moment, not least because we had never before experienced a Chinese New Year.

      The dancer was simply wonderful and so poised. We were utterly captivated and entranced.

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  47. Dearest J&L, I love being able to visualize "Crossing the Danube. . . " though I only saw a glimpse of your great adopted city (magical sounds, sights and culinary delights packed into five days) . . . it was enchanting. The Klothilde Palaces certainly do stand grandly there with the bridge in the background . . . that is a great shot Jane. I am so glad to hear that M is continuing to offer great fun and that you had such a wonderful time celebrating the Chinese New Year. What an exquisite young dancer and the bright yellow dragon dancing around must have been a treat.

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    1. And so, dearest Carol, you must return for longer to experience more. For our part we remember those days with you as being so filled with so much happiness and joy.

      The entire evening was great fun and it was so special for us to experience something completely new and very different from other occasions. Both Richard and M make for the most excellent company and are always hugely entertaining.

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  48. I accidently hit publish button twice, I apologise in advance if my comment appears twice! Regards, Tammy

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    1. We do similar things the whole time, Tammy. But on this occasion there was not a problem. Oh, Blogger!!!

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  49. Dearest Jane and Lance

    And the beat goes on. I am delighted to read you are celebrating and burning the midnight oil and eating pudding in the early morning hours and likely strolling home singing "puff the magic dragon lived by the sea but followed the Hattatt's to Budapest where he took some afternoon tea" OK OK I will stick to my knitting/painting!!
    Looks like a delighted venue and in the good company of Richard I can just imagine what fun you had.

    Helen xx

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    1. Oh, Helen, we love it when you move into poetry mode!!

      Yes, it was the most fantastic of evenings and the kind of occasion which, we are sure, you both would have enjoyed hugely. What will stick in our minds is the colour which, combined with a vibrancy, gave to the entire night a very special quality.

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  50. Chinese New Year and european elegance all tied up in one evening...how wonderful!

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    1. A strange but hugely successful combination, Adrienne, and one which we so much enjoyed.

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  51. How absolutely wonderful!!! An evening of contrasts and joy...a most fun way to ring in the Chinese New Year!
    May Budapest flourish and blossom in the coming years...one hopes.
    The happiest blessings to you both! Cheers!
    Hugs,
    - Irina

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    1. It was all such great fun, Irina, and we enjoyed, as you may imagine, every single minute.

      We too hope and pray that Budapest will flourish in what are proving to be the most difficult of times for Hungary and for Hungarians, particularly the young and the very old.

      And blessings and love to you.

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    2. Thank you both, dear ones!
      A lovely week to you...
      xoxo,
      - Irina

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    3. Thank you. You are so very supportive.

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  52. Looks like you guys did have the most awesome fun! :) Ad the restaurant and merriment seem to be the best! ;)
    Happy Chinese new Year to you both!

    Hugs,

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    1. And a very happy Chinese New Year to you, Kasia.

      Yes, we had a wonderful time which lasted right through into the early hours and so it cannot be said that we did not see the new year in properly!

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  53. I love how exotic that place/event looks.
    The dancing dragon is said to bring good luck
    and drive away evil spirits.
    Love how oriental the setting is inside while it is held
    at a historical place in Budapest... a wonderful mix of culture.

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    1. There were times during the evening, Ann, when we could not quite believe that we were in Budapest. It was all enormous fun and something to be remembered well into the future.

      Delete
  54. Wow it looks like you had a very wonderful and magical evening in very beautiful surroundings. I love the look of the 2 palace's side by side i bet they could tell many stories and memories of times past. Budapest looks like a wonderful city. Best wishes to you both, dee x

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    1. You are absolutely right, Dee! If those palaces could talk then the stories would certainly make for riveting conversation. Even from the little which we know about Budapest's history, the palaces were indeed the scene for many an interesting party or two, or more in the past....!!

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  55. A grand dame of palaces now a hotel. That is fitting i think. It's encouraging when spectacular architecture is given a new life and once again becomes part of the circle of life. The Chinese new year celebrations look delightful!

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    1. The Klothilde Palaces are indeed 'Grandes Dames' of Budapest's glittering past and played significant roles in the City's social scene. So, as you say, they are once again returned to their intended position on centre stage!

      The Chinese New Year celebration was enormous fun!

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  56. How clever of you to celebrate the New Year twice! ;) and, What a curious blend of cultures and era are in this post but it all seems to make sense together. and, it's fun to hear what you're up to! and, I just love fortune cookies!! So.... 'enquiring minds want to know'.... what DID your fortunes say? =]

    xxoo

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    1. It was rather a fun thing to have done, now you have reminded us that that is in fact what we did!! And we enjoyed both occasions enormously, not least for experiencing in the second a completely different culture.

      Alas, Katy, the translations of the Fortune Cookies failed to make sense of anything. We are therefore none the wiser!

      Delete
  57. Looks like a magical evening! One for the books as they say!
    annie

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    1. It was a truly magical evening, Annie, and one which we shall remember for a long time to come.

      Delete
  58. A pair of wayward twins, chocolate pudding, loose talk of snakes and wild partying - sounds like my sort of night out!
    Sx

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    1. As it was ours, although we are in all truth rather less than keen on the snakes.

      Marchesa Louisa Casati used to take a pet python with her when she went out to dinner. Now that would be one too much, even for us.

      Delete
  59. Hello Jane and Lance, and many thanks for giving us a glimpse of the elegant exuberance of a very special evening's celebration.

    I certainly hope that both Klothilde Palaces will eventually be able to smile at each other across the bridge.

    This may seem an obvious thought, I do wonder if the area is frequently used as a film location. It would seem to suit story lines set in many an era. Your glowing photographs have made me curious to see much more of the Palaces.

    Happy Year of the Snake! xo

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    1. We love your idea, Frances, of the Klothilde Palaces 'smiling' at each other across the bridge. Whilst the one has been fully restored as the Buddha Hotel, the future of the other is not entirely certain and we are not convinced that restoration is actually going on apace.

      It is interesting that you have wondered about Budapest as a film location. It is used very frequently in this way, often to depict Paris as very much cheaper than that city. Last summer occasioned major disruption as Bruce Lee spent several weeks filming here for his latest [heaven knows what!] film. 'Munich', directed by Steven Spielberg, was also shot here.

      We have Norwegian film maker friends who are established here as a much less expensive option than Oslo.

      And a very, very happy New Year to you!

      Delete
  60. We have only been to Budapest once but those palaces are one of the things I remember most vividly. I love it when cultures come together as they did in your celebration. Perfect.

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    1. How splendid that you remember the Klothilde Palaces, Elizabeth. They are something of landmark buildings in the City's downtown.

      Perhaps you will return to Budapest to see them restored? We do hope so.

      Delete
  61. Dear Jane and Lance,

    The gate-like quality of the Klothilde Palaces are an intresting architectural concept. Were they originally homes?

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    1. We cannot be absolutely sure, Mark, of the original interior design and purpose of the Klothilde Palaces but we imagine, as with similar buildings throughout the City, they were intended as apartment houses with retail shops on the ground floor.

      Delete
  62. Another glorious evening with Jane and Lance. I do love being an on-looker to your dazzling evenings about town. I'm learning too, about a part of the world I heretofore knew little about. (Except for a few pages of fun in Aaron Elkin's book LOOT in which the protagonist, an art curator, undertakes a brief and unsuccessful trip to Hungary, the first I've ever read about in any of my books.)

    What amazing buildings are those palaces. Twin guide posts. It's wonderful that they've been revived and restored.

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    1. This is so very kind of you, Yvette. It is true that one can discover so much about another country through the Blogosphere. We have had much the same experience.

      We are delighted with the progress which has been made on the Klothilde Palaces. Still some way to go even so!

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  63. What a magical way to welcome the new year! I love the stately architecture of Budapest.

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    1. It was a totally new experience for us, Sarah, and one which was, as you say, 'magical'.

      Yes, Budapest has some extraordinarily fine and interesting architecture.

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  64. What a beautiful place - the buildings begged to be restored I'm sure and what better than an hotel to ensure people, both local and tourists, could enjoy the magnificence.

    Love the Buddha Bar concept - love Buddhas after spending time in Thailand etc. What a grand party that must have been - thanks you for sharing with us.

    Happy Chinese New Year -
    Mary

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    1. It is, Mary, so good to see these formerly neglected buildings put to a new purpose. The depressing thing is that there are still so many requiring renovation and no money available to carry it out.

      The Buddha Bar is certainly one of the 'hot spots' in town and great fun of an evening.

      Delete
  65. Never having been anywhere near a celebration of Chinese New Year, this all looks so bewitchingly exotic, Jane and Lance. And that dancer...... You have some wonderfully generous and hospitable friends.

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    1. Until last Saturday night, neither had we, Perpetua. In the event it was totally exotic, as you say, and enormous fun. We loved the 'dragons' especially, so colourful and full of movement.

      We are blessed with some wonderful friends.

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  66. Leave it to the Hattatts to celebrate Chinese New Year in style! What a party!

    Thanks as always for sharing such great photos. I never realized that Budapest was such a beautiful city until I started reading your blog. Those palaces are magnificent.

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    1. Actually it was all very new for us too but so exciting.

      Budapest is the most beautiful of cities, and the Danube waterfront is simply wonderful and even more so seen at night. Alas so many of the buildings are in a very poor state of repair, the result of years of total neglect during the Soviet period.

      Delete
  67. Looks like a great party and celebrating Chinese New year is such fun.
    I have special memories of a New Year celebrated as guests of the Chinese community in Seria, Brunei.

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    1. It was our first experience of celebrating the Chinese New Year and we enjoyed it immensely. How wonderful to have had the New Year in Brunei - now that we should imagine was very special.

      Delete
  68. What a wonderful way to usher in the NEW year of the snake! Since I was born during one of the OLD years of the snake, I heartily approve!

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    1. All very jolly indeed, Elizabeth. We have to confess always to having been somewhat wary of snakes. But to know that you are in that number entirely alters our perspective.

      A very happy New Year to YOU!

      Delete
  69. Simply wonderful! We saw the year of the snake in quietly at home.

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    1. We did have a tremendous time but it has to be said that this is the first time we have experienced the Chinese New Year.

      Delete
  70. The architecture there is stunning, and sad that so many magnificent buildings may already be beyond repair, but wonderful that many are being saved and put to use. Its the story behind the construction of these architecturally complex buildings that fascinates me.
    Thank you Jane and Lance for a jolly time too!

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    1. Sadly, Rose, on our daily travels within the City we come across so many wonderful buildings which are desperately in need of restoration and for which there appears to be no money. Out in the countryside, with former country houses and mansions, the situation is far worse.

      Delete
  71. You kids have the most fun! And always in such grand style!!

    Gung Hay Fat Choy! Lucky red envelopes, please :)

    xo,
    Loi

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    1. We are most fortunate, Loi, to have a lively set of friends here in Budapest who are always ready for a new experience. This one was terrific.

      Delete
  72. What a marvellous evening, and what glorious palaces! How wonderful that they are bars and restaurants now, so that people can enjoy them, as you certainly did. The dragons look amazing, and what a great way to liven up a snowy February night.
    As always, your lives sound completely thrilling, and I love enjoying it all vicariously!

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    1. It is good that a new use has been found for at least one of the Klothilde Palaces in the form of the Buddha Hotel. The interior is, of course, much altered from how it once was.

      As you say, an excellent way of dispelling the winter blues.

      Delete
  73. What glamourous lives you lead! I love the photo looking down into the restaurant...such wonderful scale. It sounds as if you had a lovely evening and thanks for sharing. Annie

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    1. Like so many of the buildings in Budapest, Annie, the Klothilde Palaces were constructed on an enormous scale. Even in our own apartment the ceiling heights are above 4m/12ft.

      Delete
  74. I know I've probably said it before, but there's no other way to say it: you know how to live!

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    1. We are very fortunate, Susan, to be able to lead full lives here in Budapest. You would love all of the music which is available all of the time.

      Delete
  75. Gorgeous grand staircase! I'd love to see what's attached to it, I'm sure it's all as grand, if not more so.
    Wishing you both a lovely Valentine's Day...looks like the evening you had at the Buddha would be the perfect place to celebrate, so fun and in such a romantic place!
    xo J~

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    1. The staircase really is frightfully grand, Jessica, and we find any number of excuses to go up and down it! But there really are so many fine entrance halls throughout Budapest that one is spoilt for choice!

      And we send 'heartfelt' love and good wishes to you this St. Valentine's Day.

      Delete
  76. What a place. I love the old buildings, they are wonderful. And inside, this staircase, how amazing!! I would spend many hours there just walking up and down :) I love the lights that adorn the railings too..so grand!! I hope you have a wonderful & loving Valentine's day that will bring you love every day!! Have a great time!! xx

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    1. We too love all old buildings and Budapest is certainly full of them. The staircase in the Klothilde Palace is very grand and spectacular, particularly for the way in which it soars upwards.

      We send you our very best wishes for this St. Valentine's Day and many more to come.

      Delete
  77. What a perfect, exotic escape from the snow! You have no idea how much this delightful post has fueled and fed my Buddha mania! I can only imagine how much you must have enjoyed with the food, dance, and of course, the elegant company.

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    1. Oh, Suman, you really do say the sweetest of things. It really was a very special evening in the company of dear friends and matched with excellent food and wine. And certainly a way of banishing the winter blues.

      Delete
  78. Hello Jane and Lance,
    Truly beautiful palaces (and a pair!). To think they needed saving is surprising. They are so fine in their detail. Your Chinese New Year celebrations looked suitably wildly-exotic and in such an exquisite location! Thank you for another beautiful post!
    Ivan

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    1. There are, sadly Ivan, very many wonderful buildings in Budapest which are still in desperate need of repair. These particular palaces are in such a strategic position that it is incredibly good to see them brought back to their glory days.

      And yes, the evening was somewhat wild. Dancing and giggling until 2am, this was certainly a New Year celebration which we shall remember for all time!

      Delete
  79. Dragons and dancers and fun, Oh, My! What a fantabulous evening that must have been.

    Thank you for this "standing invitation" to tag along on your wonderful adventures.

    rachel

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    1. Dearest Rachel, you are welcome to 'tag' along any time....we only wish that you were with us in person. We just know that you would be up for the dancing, the champagne and the dragons in attendance....but even we could not cope every night of the week!!!

      Delete
  80. So glad that those palaces are being restored - sympathetically too, by the looks of it. Sounds like a great night! Thank you for your comment. We've just come back from Stratford - the production of The Winters Tale (Dir Lucy Bailey) was absolutely excellent. We stayed in a very grand hotel that I think you two would have loved - Walton Hall, near Stratford - a 19th C country mansion, restored by Danny La Rue!! Amazing place. Abby

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    1. Yes, it is extremely good news that the Klothilde Palaces are being restored to their former glory. The architecture is wonderful and they occupy a prominent position in the City, so it is important that they look good.

      It is too long since we were last in the theatre at Stratford. 'The Winter's Tale' sounds to have been marvellous and we have to say that we have never been disappointed by a production there.And, you are right,Abby, Walton Hall sounds exactly our kind of place to stay......

      Delete
  81. Wonderful! In awe I follow your steps! It was just what the doctor ordered today!

    xoxo

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    1. Good, good!!! Today we need something else that the doctor might prescribe.....after another evening out with Richard!!!

      Delete
  82. Jane and Lance,

    I think we all enjoy tagging along with you on your elegant evenings!Loved all of the bright colors in this one!...Janey

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    1. And we do so love having everyone here as company. It is just like a big international party!!!

      Delete
  83. Dearest Jane and Lance... I read your post while I was in the hospital but was unable to view all the fabulous pictures with the amazing colors and scenes.. thank you for sharing.

    I am getting better... slowly. At least I am home now in my own bed and with wonderful people bringing me tasty food... healthy, I feel loved by all of them. So now I am getting caught up on all my blogs, finally caught up to yours, have an awesome day :)

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    1. Launna, we do so hope that our post managed to bring some cheer to you whilst you are recovering. It was certainly a night to remember for us!

      Take great care of yourself and get well soon!!

      Delete
  84. Good morning Jane!

    You bring ME a world that I may never see, and an elegance of what appears to be a bygone era, but nonetheless a current JOY for me to see. What fantastic architecture and delight you get to revel in, in your travels and in your living there! MAGNIFICENT!

    I want to thank you kindly for coming to visit me and UNDERSTANDING my post. I fear that some people are thinking that I am writing about my LOVE LIFE! NO! I can see by your comment that you understand I was merely translating into English with words AND photos, an ironic love song. THANK YOU! Anita

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    1. We just know that you would love Budapest, Anita. Its faded grandeur, beautiful architecture and plethora of cultural activities make it a most exciting and interesting place to live. We are so pleased that you enjoy it through our blog.

      No, iced love could not be accurate for you, we are sure.Passion all the way!!

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  85. I believe that is the lion doing his lion dance - a CNY tradition for bringing good fortune in the new year :)

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    1. Thank you, Irina. You are much better informed than we are.

      Delete
  86. Oh Jane & Lance, my life is pales in comparison by such magnitude!!! What an enchanted evening. Thank you for sharing a slice of it with your readers. Wishing you both a fun-filled weekend. xx

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    1. We are sure that this is not the case at all, Deb, but it has to be said that we are finding Budapest the most magical place in which to live. Happy weekend to you too.

      Delete
  87. Chinese dragons and a decadent chocolate pudding ... this sounds like my kind of evening!

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    1. The chocolate pudding will remain in our minds, Annie, for a great deal of time to come. Oh to be able to cook!!

      Delete
  88. Dear Jane & Lance,

    I am seriously considering moving to Budapest :-)! All those parties you get invited too! The Budha hotel looks impressive with it's two towers. There is something about the architecture (neo classical ?) that I like! Hope many more of those beautiful buildings in your amazing town will be saved. Have they started on that beautiful shopping mall you showed us?

    Have a lovely weekend!

    Madelief x

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    1. Now if that were to happen ,then we really should have a ball! The Buddha Hotel has made a wonderful restoration of a building which was sadly in such a poor state of repair and certainly given it a new, and very different, lease of life. Unfortunately, as you will know from your time here, much yet needs to be done.

      Last night we were at the Finnish Embassy for the most wonderful 'Salon-Concert'. How you would have loved it.

      Delete
  89. Hi Jane & Lance,

    What a delightful evening and so fitting to celebrate in the Buddha Hotel.

    We stayed at home for Chinese New Year, however I did prepared a Chinese-style meal to help commemorate the occasion.

    When I visited Budapest, I found it rather grand and intriguing, so it is always fascinating to read about the marvellous things that you do.

    Fifi x


    ReplyDelete
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    1. We certainly had great fun at the Buddha Hotel in celebration of the Chinese New Year but your 'at home' evening also sounds to have been very enjoyable too.

      There are, as you will know, some wonderful buildings in Budapest many of which are, slowly, being restored to their former grandeur.

      Delete
  90. Hi Jane and Lance,

    And as luck would have it, you, my intellectual friends, are delighted to get a highly anticipated comment from me, yes me, shy and humble me!

    Thus, another journey into your wondrous world. Another superbly crafted articulation by your good selves, along with intriguing photos. I promise my comment wont 'dragon'. I opened up my fortune cookie and the note inside stated, "Help! I'm being held hostage in a fortune cookie factory!"

    A peaceful weekend to you both. Thank you for your support and kind words on my site. Even on postings that don't exist.

    Gary

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    1. Your comments, Gary, whether or not they 'dragon', are always appreciated and enjoyed. As too are your posts, when they exist!

      We like the 'Fortune Cookie' joke and had not heard it before. A happy weekend to you too.

      Delete
  91. It was sudden serendipity to be researching early 20th. century poems when I wondered how you both were and, therefore, googled. A blog no less and beautiful images, and Lance's evocative prose. Budapest looks ravishing! We know Lucca and have stayed in Venice every year since 1984.Clearly you are enjoying a life fulfilled. My 70th. is imminent...
    Richard (|Kenilworth)

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    1. Richard, what good fortune!! Our Fortune Cookies for the Chinese New Year could not have brought a happier surprise than to hear from you.

      We too love Italy, and Venice in particular, and are already looking forward to staying with our friends in Lucca again in June [do read the posts - they have the most wonderful garden].

      An email is winging its way to you - we hope that we have a correct address. Thank you too for becoming a Follower - it is much appreciated.

      Delete
  92. Dear Jane and Lance,
    Late to the party once again, but I just want to add my thanks for this wonderful post to the long list of admiring messages above. Celebrating the Chinese new year at the Klothilde Palaces with beloved friends-- it's just divine...Thank you for treating us to another glittering adventure.
    Warm regards,
    Erika

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    1. The whole experience, Erika, was, as you can imagine, truly wonderful. Such fun, vitality, delicious food and happy conversation. It was definitely an evening which we shall never forget.

      This was our first Chinese New Year celebration, but we shall hope that it is not our last!

      Delete
  93. Incredible beautiful matching buildings!!
    Thanks for the introduction :)
    Wee hours??? I can't hold my eyes open that late!

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    1. Yes, Phyllis, the Klothilde Palaces are incredibly beautiful and make such an elegant impression when one comes over the bridge into Pest.

      We were amazed that it was 2am when we finally stepped into the taxi to go home as we felt that we could have carried on longer....but the next day was very, very quiet!!!

      Delete
  94. It sounds like the Palaces' refurbishment has signalled the beginning of a modern multicultural venue - where anything could happen! So glad fortune (in the form of cookies) has smiled upon you!

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    1. The fortune cookies took some deciphering. The translation from Hungarian to English had not travelled well!!!But, we believed that we were wished well for 2013!!

      Delete
  95. What a superb place and thankyou for sharing your journey into the nooks and crannies of Budapest. I have travelled a great deal through Asia so was delighted to see that even this small piece of this ancient culture has found a place within another part of the world.

    I have been an intermitten blogger this year.. so much has been happening in our lives that there has been little time to blog. Thankyou for your visits when I do.

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    1. OH Christine, there are so many intriguing nooks and crannies in Budapest. We merely scratch the surface of them, to be sure, but it is always a thrill to come across somewhere new and definitely different. The Buddha Bar Hotel is certainly a place of glamour and elegance!

      We are happy to know that it is only a busy life which is keeping you away from the Blogosphere. The very best reason for being an intermittent blogger!!

      Delete
  96. I just love it when they restore old buildings, after all, it's all part of history and something for the generations after us to see and know. I would also love one day to be part of the Chinese New Year, as I missed it in London recently and everyone has been telling how much fun it was. Glad you had a wonderful time.

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    1. There are so many wonderful buildings in Budapest and, sadly, there are still many more in need of restoration. However, gradually, the city is regaining its former glory and it is, as you say, so good to see this marvellous architecture restored for future generations to enjoy.

      Thank you for your comment. We hope to welcome you here again!

      Delete
  97. Hello Jane and Lance, I've so enjoyed this beautiful glimpse of Budapest with its glorious architecture and history...living history because you are there to enliven it!

    Happy Year of the Snake! Kung Hey Fat Choy!

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    1. Budapest is very much a City with a history and it is that, Carol, which appeals so much to us about it. And you are most kind.

      A very happy, if somewhat belated, New Year to you too.

      Delete

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